• More Travel Stories
  • 10 TripTiks
Country Music Hall of Fame

Country Fan or Not, Nashville Boasts Top-Notch Attractions
By Christine E. McDermott

  I’ve been a country fan since country wasn’t cool, so Nashville had been high on my travel list for a long time. The Grand Ole Opry, the Bluebird Café and the Country Music Hall of Fame: That’s my kind of paradise.
  With my cowboy boots at the ready, I did not expect to find a revitalized city with top-notch cultural and educational attractions.

Read more
 


In Woodstock, Youth Feel Like You're in a Currier & Ives Print
Bundle Up: Ice Obsession is Contagious in Newfoundland
Sit Back, Relax & Enjoy the Caribbean on a Homeport Cruise
Going Places with AAA Travel, Courtesy of ‘The Rhode Show’
Earn Your Chef’s Hat — Or Just Eat — at the Culinary Institute
After Walk Across U.S., He Hopes to Deliver Books to Obama
Cruises Offer Families an Unforgettable Reunion Experience
Steel City Thriving With First-Rate Attractions & Ethnic Eats

 


Stress-Free Holiday Shopping
By Megan Gorzkowski

    Take a deep breath and repeat: Holiday shopping does not have to be stressful. Rather than let it become a last-minute headache, turn it into a day trip — or even a weekend away — and surprise your loved ones with some memorable gifts.

Read More
 


Boasting Dinosaurs and Loving Rock & Roll, These are Some AAA Gems
Just Say Spaah! From Cocoa Baths to Flower Wraps, Wash Your Worries Away
• Student or Not, You'll Love These Campuses
Florida Bound? Break Up Your Road Trip With One of These Stops

 
arrow2 BACK TO HORIZONS MAIN PAGE
 





























Country Fan or Not, Nashville Boasts Top-Notch Attractions
By Christine E. McDermott

The Grand Ole Opry and Country Music Hall of Fame are must-visits.

  I’ve been a country fan since country wasn’t cool, so Nashville had been high on my travel list for a long time. The Grand Ole Opry, the Bluebird Café and the Country Music Hall of Fame: That’s my kind of paradise.
  With my cowboy boots at the ready, I did not expect to find a revitalized city with top-notch cultural and educational attractions. But in the past decade, Nashville has seen the opening of a major arts center, a high-tech planetarium and one of the world’s most acoustically sound symphony halls.
  On open studios nights, the foot traffic outside art galleries rivals that on honky-tonk row. And while there’s no shortage of mouth-watering barbecue, the restaurant scene is far more eclectic than ribs and grits.
  Certainly, if your sole mission is a Music City pilgrimage that would make Hank Williams proud, Nashville delivers. But, if your travel companions insist twang makes their ears bleed, they may reconsider when they hear what the area has to offer.
The Arts
  Nashville is not just known as the “Athens of the South,” it’s also home to a full-sized replica of the Parthenon, complete with a 42-foot statue of Athena. “This is the only place in the world where you can see what the ancient Greeks wanted you to see,” said Museum Director Wesley Paine.
  Despite the nickname, it wasn’t until the Frist Center for the Visual Arts opened in 2001 that Nashville had a museum large enough to host major exhibits. And so, the Frist — a former U.S. Post Office with an Art Deco interior — has no permanent collection but instead offers a changing mix of works by local artists and national and international shows. Among the current offerings: “Georgia O’Keeffe and Her Times,” running through January.
  More O’Keeffe can be viewed at Fisk University — and only there. The small school boasts an extensive catalogue of African art and an O’Keeffe collection gifted by the artist with the stipulation it not be shown anywhere but the campus gallery she chose.
  Nashville also gives star treatment to the performing arts. When the Schermerhorn Symphony Center opened in 2006, it was the country’s most technically innovative concert hall. The shoebox-shaped building offers near-perfect acoustics for the Nashville Symphony’s classical, pops, cabaret, jazz, choral and world music.
History
  Nashville is steeped in history, from its founding as a Revolutionary War fort to its role in the Civil Rights Movement.
  Step just outside the city to the Hermitage, the home of President Andrew Jackson. Cows still wander the fields of the 1,100-acre plantation, and inside, 90 percent of the furnishings are original. After viewing an introductory video, follow a costumed interpreter through the mansion.    
  There’s a bit of musical heritage here, too: The driveway is shaped like a guitar, and the family’s piano, guitar and lute rest in the parlor.
  For Civil War history, view the collection at the Nashville State Museum and visit Fort Negley, an important Union fortification after Nashville fell in 1862.
  Almost a century later, the city took center stage in the fight against segregation when African-American students held a sit-in at lunch counters near the Nashville Public Library. Today, the library hosts a Civil Rights   Collection where visitors can sit on stools at a symbolic lunch counter and view black-and-white newspaper photos from the era.
Family Fun
  Children will find plenty to do in Nashville, starting with the Adventure Science Center, which emphasizes hands-on education. “We want you to touch things, feel things, climb on things,” said Marketing Director Virginia Crowe.
  Its newest addition is Space Chase, where you can wander an imaginary galaxy and experience weightlessness like an astronaut. In the Sudekum Planetarium, watch award-winning, original productions that use new technology to immerse you in the experience.
  At the Nashville Zoo, get up close to alligators, giraffes and other critters. Ride the Wild Animal Carousel, and let loose at the huge Jungle Gym playground.
Country Time
  Whatever your taste, it would be a crime to skip the legendary country music sites. The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, Grand Ole Opry and Bluebird Café are musts.
  The Hall moved from Music Row to its stunning, bass-clef-shaped home in 2001. Among the artifacts: Elvis’ gold Cadillac and Johnny Cash’s “Man in Black” costumes. Sound booths offer a musical tour, and a wall of gold records doubles as a listening station.
  Most performances of the Grand Ole Opry take place at the Opryland complex, but there are occasional shows at the Ryman Auditorium, the “Mother Church” of country music. Legends like Emmylou Harris and Marty Stuart frequent the Opry, but the lineup changes daily, and you might catch a current star like Carrie Underwood or Keith Urban. No matter where you see the Opry or who’s on stage, it’s magical.
  Glimpse stars of tomorrow in an intimate setting at the Bluebird Café, whose stage has hosted the likes of Joni Mitchell, Dolly Parton and Bill Monroe.
  If you were already a country fan, you’ll be in your glory. And if you weren’t, you just might become a convert.
  Log on to AAA.com/horizons for information on where to stay and eat. orb

Where to Stay
Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center
2800 Opryland Drive, (615) 889-1000

This sprawling and luxurious AAA Three-Diamond rated hotel is home to the Grand Ole Opry concert hotel. It features an indoor water stream under an atrium, lush greenery, upscale rooms and expansive meeting areas. There’s nightly entertainment, an 18-hole golf course, and numerous shopping areas.
The Hermitage Hotel
231 6th Ave. N., (615) 244-3121

Built in 1910, this historic hotel takes great pride in continually upgrading its amenities to maintain a AAA Five-Diamond rating. The luxurious guest rooms feature all the latest amenities and comforts one can expect at this diamond rating level.
Hilton Nashville Downtown
121 4th St. S., (615) 620-1000

If you’re looking for a prime location, this AAA Four-Diamond rated hotel has it: next door is the arena, across the street is the Country Music Hall of Fame, and just a stone’s throw away is the stadium.

Where to Eat
Capitol Grille
231 6th Ave. N., (615) 244-3121

In The Hermitage Hotel, this AAA Four-Diamond rated dining room has been restored to reflect its original ambiance. Ceiling arches, columns, inset oak panel walls and upscale decorative accents combine with traditional appointments to create an elegant, yet comfortable, setting. The cuisine has a distinct Southern flair, accented by an imaginative combination of fresh local and regional ingredients.
Jacks Bar-B-Que
416 Broadway, (615) 254-5715

Touted as the best barbecue this side of the Mississippi River, the AAA One-Diamond rated Jacks is in the heart of the city in a quaint, rustic building with its original brick walls and wood floors. Wood tables are covered with red-and-white-checked tablecloths, lending to the eatery’s casual, cafeteria-style setting.
Loveless Café
8400 Highway 100, (615) 646-9700

A local staple for 50-plus years, this AAA Two-Diamond rated eatery has a local crowd that congregates for the flaky, fresh-baked biscuits and the homemade peach, blackberry and strawberry preserves. Others rave about the pan-fried chicken and country ham with red-eyed gravy.

Back to Index

 




















In Woodstock, You’ll Feel Like You’re in a Currier & Ives Print
By David A. Kelly

Families enjoy Nordic skiing on the 1,250-foot Mount Tom.

  It may be a village of 3,500 residents, but Woodstock is a cosmopolitan town that offers the best of rural Vermont life with a decidedly down-home upscale approach.
  In the center of the state, Woodstock surrounds an idyllic town green. In addition to quaint shops and cozy restaurants, it contains a fine collection of Federal homes and the stately Woodstock Inn and Resort ().
  The Inn, on the town green, is a graceful yet comfortable example of Vermont hospitality and country charm.   It has a classic resort-hotel feel, with a roaring fireplace, casual yet chic dining, and a library filled with games, books (and free hot chocolate morning and afternoons). A quintessentially Vermont covered bridge can be found across the street.
  Winter is a wonderful time to stroll the small downtown, with its eclectic collection of art shops, hardware stores, restaurants and cafes that line the two main streets.
  Step into the past at F.H. Gillingham & Sons: the most general of general stores. It’s easy to lose yourself in aisles stocked with everything from Vermont honey and cocoa to toilet seats and fertilizer. A combination grocery, hardware, liquor, kitchen and farm store, if you want it, Gillingham’s has it.
  Down the street, the Clover Gift shop is stuffed with gorgeous handmade quilts at reasonable prices, delicate glassware and other gifts.
  Woodstock’s Winter Wassail Weekend is a perfect way to kick off the holidays and get into the winter spirit. It’s held Dec. 11 to 13, and the village lights up with luminaries around the town green, a traditional Yule log, concerts, house tours and a parade featuring the Green Mountain Horse Association.
  “The parade is a real Currier & Ives-type event, featuring wagons, surreys and period riders,” said Beth Finlayson, director of the Woodstock Chamber of Commerce. “Antoinette Matlins, the founder of the parade, even rides sidesaddle in a flowing gown from before the turn of the last century.”
  Wassail Weekend is just the beginning of wintertime fun in Woodstock, which offers an abundance of activities for the rest of the season.
  You can also capture a feel for a Vermont holiday at Billings Farm, one of the country’s premier agricultural museums. Christmas at the Farm (December weekends and Dec. 26 to Jan. 3) features a traditionally decorated 1890s farmhouse, period musical performances and horse-drawn sleigh rides.
  “Billings Farm even has a Christmas tree decorated with real candles,” Ms. Finlayson said. “Just like people did 120 years ago.”
  Of course, there are plenty of outlets for snow sports. Suicide Six Ski Area (run by the Woodstock Inn) provides a family-friendly alternative to massive mountains like Killington. It has good snowmaking capability and 23 trails for skiers of all abilities.
  Cross-country types will want to take advantage of the Inn’s Nordic Center, with two separate trail systems, featuring century-old carriage roads and a log cabin rest stop on nearby Mount Tom. Inn guests can ski for free Sunday through Thursday on non-holiday weeks.
  Not a skier? Try sledding down the edge of Mount Tom. About a half-mile north on Route 12, past Billings Farm, is the perfect sledding hill. Visitors can park on the right, cross the road and fly down the snowy hill on a sled, tube or snow disk. Sleds are rented at Woodstock Sports and Fine Clothing on Central Street and sold at F. H. Gillingham & Sons or the Woodstock Ski Touring Center.
  The area also offers opportunities to snowshoe. Simply cross the covered bridge near the Green and continue on Mountain Avenue to Faulkner Park on the right. A variety of easy switchback trails lead to the top of Mount Tom.
All in all, Woodstock is a slice of fresh country apple pie with a double-shot café latte. From skiing to sledding to snowshoeing to shopping, it’s easy to see why it’s a great place to warm up to winter. orb

Back to Index

 














Bundle Up: Ice Obsession is Contagious in Newfoundland
By Adam McCulloch

A boat tours an iceberg in Newfoundland’s Witless Bay.

  Cold is a relative thing. To anyone living south of the Canadian border, Newfoundland’s climate could be compared with that of a meat locker.
  But to adventurer Captain Bob Bartlett – who enabled Admiral Robert Peary to be the first man to reach the North Pole a century ago — Newfoundland represented the last warm glow of civilization before making the big push toward the Arctic Circle.
  The coastal hamlet of Brigus (where birdhouses surely outnumber homes two to one) seems like an odd place for a stopover for an expedition of global significance. Even today, less than 800 people call this paradise home. But, as I wander along a path strewn with summer wildflowers, I discover Bartlett’s real motivation: a home-cooked meal.
  Bartlett grew up in Brigus but left when he was 21 to seek fame and fortune. He conducted more than 40 polar voyages throughout his life and stopped in to see mom each time. His house (now a museum) has been left as if he might return at any moment; furniture and maps still fill the bedrooms. One wall of the lounge is covered with accolades from storied institutions and presidents past, but it’s the “Friendly Order of the Original Bad Eggs” awards that get my attention.
  It turns out Bartlett was a ham. A “Crocodile Hunter” of polar waters, he often filmed his Arctic voyages. Upstairs in the multimedia room, they play on endless loop. This is among the earliest exploration footage on Earth.
  I settle into a chair as Bartlett blithely narrates the harpooning of a narwhal (his exhibition relied on seals and whales for food and finance) but the most extraordinary footage is yet to come. Bartlett collected many samples of unusual creatures for zoos all over the world, and the cameras were rolling when he spotted a polar bear (later named Miss Carmichael) drifting on an iceberg. It took the entire crew to haul the reluctant creature on board, at which time it made a desperate break for freedom, attempting to jump overboard.
  In what is possibly the most outrageous example of he-followed-me-home-can-I-keep-him, Bartlett brought the animals (bears, walruses, musk oxen — the works) to Brigus and let them roam free in his parents’ yard.
While strolling the grounds (now devoid of predators), I hear talk of two icebergs crowding the waters around Corner Brook further north.
  “If you’re there at exactly the right time, you’ll hear them explode,” swears a local. Like an ice cube in a glass of lemonade, they make an audible crack before dissolving into the sea.
  I drive north, keen to discover by car the coast Bartlett surveyed by boat. Road trips are a relatively new phenomenon in Newfoundland. It took until 1975 (roughly 365 years after the first settlement in 1610) for a road system to link all the villages together. Towns like Keels, Heart’s Desire and the aptly named Come By Chance were left to develop in splendid isolation.
  I make a wide loop of Trinity Bay scanning the horizon for floating snowcapped peaks, but find nothing (it’s mid-summer and the soft warmth has coaxed flowers from even the rockiest crevice). In Cupids, I happen upon Bill Gilbert, chief archaeologist charged with unearthing the home of founding father John Guy. Gilbert and his team have amassed more than 138,000 artifacts: items from pipes to coins dating back to 1560 to Bellamine jars (beer mugs on which the face of a tee-totaling Cardinal Bellamine was emblazoned) now line the walls of the local museum.
  Finally, I land in Port Rexton and rest my bones at Fishers’ Loft. It’s here that I see my first iceberg. The following morning, with local fisherman/guide Bruce Miller at the helm, we weave through the mist over rocks hidden by inky waters. The air turns cold, then the mist parts dramatically.
  “Iceberg dead ahead!” I call. It had been sculpted expertly by wind and waves and glows an unearthly turquoise at the waterline. I feel I have discovered a gigantic gem. It’s absolutely mesmerizing. I want to wait until it detonates or until the sun shrinks it small enough to pop in my mouth.
Immediately, Captain Bartlett’s obsession with ice makes perfect sense. orb

Back to Index

 

























Sit Back, Relax & Enjoy the Caribbean on a Homeport Cruise
By Brandie M. Jefferson

The ship’s Royal Promenade is open 24 hours.

  A Caribbean cruise is all fruity drinks, crystal-clear water, day trips to white-sand beaches, reading on the deck by the pool and soaking in the sun. In a word, relaxing.
  But what about rushing to the airport, paying to check your luggage with the airline, security, customs and the three-hour flight to Florida?
And don’t forget, you have to do it again to get home.
  OK, so flying to take an extravagant vacation isn’t necessarily a hardship. And some people actually like to fly. But if you’re not one of them, don’t give up on cruising the Caribbean.
  This spring, New Englanders can spend 13 nights aboard the Explorer of the Seas, without setting foot on an airplane. Royal Caribbean is offering the cruise out of Cape Liberty, N.J.
  If you don’t want to drive, either, that’s fine. Roundtrip motorcoach transportation to the pier is included in the package. A bus makes stops bringing New Englanders directly to the port.
Not only is the package convenient, it also can easily save you hundreds of dollars.
  “If you have a family of four, you don’t have to pay four airfares or four fees for baggage,” said AAA Cranston Travel Counselor Pauline Costantino.
Ms. Costantino has sailed from Cape Liberty — and many other ports — and doesn’t hesitate to recommend homeport cruises.
  “It’s so nice to avoid the airport,” she said. “It’s becoming more popular, especially for people who have a fear of flying.”
The cruise departs from Cape Liberty in March and stops for shore excursions in St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Barbados, Dominica, Antigua and Puerto Rico.
  And if you cruise from one of many New England ports, you have all of the amenities of the ship to keep you occupied – the food, the casinos, the entertainment – even if the weather isn’t quite tropical for the first leg of the trip in the Atlantic.
  Go rock climbing; play a round of miniature golf; shoot hoops on a full-sized basketball court; work out or relax – or both – at the day spa and fitness center. You can even go ice-skating. Yes. There is an ice-skating rink on the Explorer of the Seas. Glide across the ice as you sail into the Caribbean.
  The ship is also home to a University of Miami Ocean Lab, using high-tech capabilities to conduct atmospheric and oceanographic research.
  All that, with room to accommodate more than 3,000 people – it’s no surprise Explorer is more than 1,000 feet long and weighs nearly 140,000 tons.
  If you can’t make the March cruise, there are plenty of alternate ports of call and destinations; Celebrity, Royal Caribbean and Princess sail roundtrip from New Jersey to the Caribbean and to Canada. Holland America leaves Boston and cruises New England, or heads to Europe, also visiting Norway, Iceland, and the Netherlands, among other places.
  And if you want to stay domestic, Norwegian Cruise Line sails from Boston to New Orleans.
  Even though all cruises are not round trip, members need not worry about being stressed when they return to an unfamiliar port, said Charlotte Nichols, AAA’s Manager of Travel Sales and Marketing.
  “Our travel counselors work with our members to ascertain exactly what is desired and needed,” she said. “Many people like to add on a pre- or post-stay to their vacation along with the air back home.”
  AAA Travel Supervisor Venilia Sousa agrees; homeport cruises can relieve a lot of the burdens of travel. And she should know.
  “I’ve been on 46 cruises,” she said. “When you return, you get your luggage and you can be home in an hour or two — there’s no hassle of getting to the airport, clearing customs and flying.”
  Sounds relaxing, like a vacation was meant to be. orb

Back to Index

 
























Going Places with AAA Travel, Courtesy of ‘The Rhode Show’
By Kimberley Edgar

AAA’s Adrian Petrie shared savings tips for traveling to Europe and NYC on recent episodes.

  Planning a celebration? Head to Disney World – the happiest place on Earth.
  Looking for tips for cruising on a family budget or how to stretch your dollar in a down economy for that fabulous honeymoon?
  There’s also some sage advice for how to pack light for a weekend trip and the pros of using a AAA travel counselor contrasted with the cons of planning a trip yourself.
  Anyone tuning in to Fox Providence’s fun, chatty, magazine-format “The Rhode Show” on a Friday mornings on Channel 12 might have caught one of AAA’s live “Going Places” segments. The pieces feature a variety of helpful travel information from AAA experts and others.
  “We look for creative ways to focus our members’ attention on the expertise of our people,” said William Sutherland, Vice President of AAA Travel. “The information we present is reliable and well-informed and presents a basis by which members can make travel arrangements in a confident manner. ‘The Rhode Show’ has been a way for us to do that.”
  Back in March, viewers learned of AAA’s Travel Marketplace that month with World of Discovery animals visiting for the occasion and live on-air interviews.
Warwick Travel Counselor Bruce Hebert has been on the lifestyle show to gab with hosts Shawn Tempesta, Elizabeth Hopkins and Vince DeMentri about the many benefits of using one of AAA’s experienced travel counselors as opposed to “doing it yourself.”
  And Cranston Travel Counselor Pauline Costantino offered tips for cruising on a friendly budget – beginning with the advice that selecting a cruise that departs from a nearby “homeport” tops this list for value and convenience.
  “We feature some of our travel counselors to show the depth of their expertise and how they can help members with their travel planning and arrangements in a myriad of ways,” said Anne Berg, AAA’s Director of Marketing Services.
  AAA has been involved with “The Rhode Show” since its early stages and was on board with its Going Places segment when the show debuted in February.
  Topics have ranged from visiting Canada at any time to Smithsonian Journey’s Travel Adventures to how to plan for and take shore excursions during a cruise vacation.
  A two-time guest on the program, Auto Travel Information Specialist Adrian Petrie has spoken about the value of European travel in recent months and how to travel affordably in New York City.
  In addition to AAA’s expert employees, Going Places guests have included industry insiders such as Disney’s Peter Figueiredo, Universal’s Dennis Quinn, Quebec City Tourism’s Katie Lepage, Royal Caribbean’s Kelly Corbett and Member Choice Vacations’ Frank Marini, who discussed travel to South Africa.
  “It was fun to work with some of our travel partners and get their perspective embedded in the shows,” Mr. Sutherland said. “And what’s really good about this is even if you missed one of the shows, you can click onto AAA.com and view it.”
  For more Going Places tips and advice, tune in to Fox Providence at 8 a.m. Fridays. Those who want to revisit AAA’s segments or watch them for the first time should visit AAA.com’s Travel page and click on “The Rhode Show” link to access the video library. orb

Back to Index

 
















Earn Your Chef’s Hat — Or Just Eat — at the Culinary Institute
By Kim Foley MacKinnon

A tour group glimpses the magic of pastry-making at the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, N.Y.

  Cat Cora, Todd English, Duff Goldman, Sara Moulton, Anthony Bourdain — if you know who these people are, or even if you don’t, but just love all things food, you might want to consider a pilgrimage to their alma mater, the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.
  The gorgeous 170-acre campus, formerly a Jesuit School built in 1901, sits regally overlooking the Hudson River. It is more than welcoming to guests who want to take a tour or eat at one of the excellent student-run restaurants. For more intense foodies, workshops, seminars and longer one- to five-day boot camps are offered. Prices range from $250 for a workshop to $2,095 for longer programs.
  On a public tour, I was surprised to learn the college is a nonprofit whose modest mission is only to “provide the world’s best professional culinary education.” The nonprofit status explains why classrooms and lecture halls are named for sponsors such as the Conrad N. Hilton Library, the General Mills Food Nutrition Center and so on.
  As my guide, a current student, took my daughter and me around campus, we got to peek in on some of the 41 kitchens and bakeshops and the five restaurants. Tours are offered whenever the Institute’s school is in session.   They’re held at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Mondays and 4 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, for $5 per person. Having a 10-year-old in tow was a definite advantage on the tour. Pastry chef professors came out of their classrooms with treats for us to taste more than once.
  Food enthusiasts can choose from a variety of classes. “Weekends at the CIA” classes take their topics from the many cookbooks the Institute has published. They include everything from bread-baking to Asian cuisine to soups to grilling. The classes are five hours long and include the cookbook you work from and an apron. While most classes are geared toward adults, there is usually a parent and teen day (kids must be at least 12) a few times a year.
  Boot camps are more intense and hone in on learning and polishing skills. In most classes, you’ll receive a chef’s uniform and eat dinner in one of the school’s restaurants. Topics include a basic training boot camp, skill development, BBQ, Italian cuisine, among many others.
  Special holiday programs in November and December include a two-day boot camp ($850) or a class just on holiday pies or cookies ($200).
  Professor Mark Ainsworth, who often runs the holiday boot camp, tries to get people to move away from some of their ingrained cooking habits. People get “tied to recipes,” especially traditional ones, but he stresses concepts over following a recipe. If you “understand how to roast a turkey, you can roast anything,” he said.
  A great component of the class focuses on what to do with leftovers, always a conundrum, especially if the same old turkey sandwiches bore you. You learn how to use all of the turkey, for example, plying the bones for stock, butterflying the breast and making a roulade. During the course, which runs from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. each day, you will learn carving techniques, tips on making holiday beverages and how to pair wines with courses. And, oh yes, you will be critiqued on your food, which is served up to everyone.
  If you’d rather enjoy the fruits of someone else’s labor, the campus has you covered. The excellent Apple Pie Bakery Café, run by the pastry chef students, has a nonstop line out the door almost all day long, if the day I was there is any indication. American Bounty Restaurant, open for lunch and dinner, features local Hudson River Valley ingredients. Escoffier, in tribute to its famous chef namesake, serves up French cuisine. Other options include the Italian Ristorante Caterina de Medicini and the more casual St. Andrews Café.
  Because students staff the restaurants, the prices are unbelievably inexpensive; yet because these are perhaps the next top chefs in the country, the food is outstanding. Bon appétit! orb

Back to Index

 


































After Walk Across U.S., He Hopes to Deliver Books to Obama
By BJ Hill

Photo courtesy of Tara Watkins
BJ Hill edges closer to home, walking in Granby, Conn.
Photo courtesy of Jennifer Klein
Above and below: BJ Hill ends his 4,250-mile journey in Copley Square.

  Boston never looked so good.
It was a snowy January afternoon with the temperature at a blustery 26 degrees. I had just crossed Mass. Ave., and I was hiking down Boylston Street toward Copley Square. It was the last mile of my Walk Across America.
  I had been crossing the country on foot since the previous March. I started on the Golden Gate Bridge, traveled over the California mountains and the Nevada desert to Salt Lake City, then through Wyoming and Nebraska to Omaha. The sizzling summer sun saw me sauntering to St. Louis, down to Mississippi, across the Deep South to Atlanta, toward the East Coast.
  Crammed in my backpack with my tent and sleeping bag was a small leather-bound notebook. Within this journal were personal notes from people I met along the way for the soon-to-be elected U.S. president.
  Some were hopeful: “Mr. President, I want to feel pride in my country again. Tired of seeing others with their heads hung low. Inspire us, so we can inspire each other. Please use your power wisely,” wrote a man from Paducah, Ky.
  And some were concerned. A woman from Mississippi wrote, “I would like more done for our troops; my son is there now.”
  Summer turned into fall, which brought Election Day. I was in High Point, N.C., staying with a Russian couple I had met online and watching the results roll in. We were glued to a giant flat-screen as Barack Hussein Obama was chosen as the 44th President of the United States.
  The following week I was headed into Greensboro, S.C., home of the 1960s lunch-counter sit-ins. The messages here, in these largely African-American neighborhoods, were of congratulations.
  “Mr. Obama, my family and I are so glad that you are the president,” wrote a Greensboro woman. “America is going to expect a lot of you but we all have faith in you. We wish you the best of luck.”
  When I first envisioned hiking across the country, I pictured rolling hills and wide-open farmlands. This is exactly what I found in central Virginia. The only downside was the late-autumn chill. I camped out behind a church near Spotsylvania one evening and woke to find frost clinging to my tent.
As New England reeled from a paralyzing December ice storm, I marched through D.C., Maryland and Delaware.
  In gray, overcast New Jersey, the sun didn’t peep out once. I trudged around the bottom corner of New York at Christmastime, into frozen Connecticut — New Milford, Torrington, Enfield — and into Sturbridge, my hometown of Leicester, Worcester, Framingham and Boston.
  As I hiked into Copley Square that Sunday afternoon, I can’t say a cavalcade of emotions overwhelmed me. Maybe I was tired; maybe the winter weather had worn me out; maybe I realized all things must come to an end.
  A few friends braved the cold to watch me cross the finish line. A few TV cameras were waiting; I gave my last of many interviews of the walk. Afterward, we ate at a nearby restaurant. And it was over.
  The event I had been planning for years, which I had dreaming of since I was a boy reading Peter Jenkins’ “A Walk across America,” was over. That night I boarded the commuter rail alone and headed back to Worcester. I suddenly found myself transitioning from “living my dream” to “lived my dream.”
  In reality, the walk is not finished. I still have three books, full of thousands of messages for the President. I am working with local lawmakers to present these to Mr. Obama personally. What he does with these journals is out of my hands; whether he archives them, tosses them aside, or maybe even keeps them nearby and opens them once in a while to remember why we voted for him.
  I’d like to think if he is reminded that one man was inspired to walk 4,250 miles across America to bring him the voices of the people, then maybe, just maybe, he’ll also be inspired to go the extra mile.
  And maybe, just maybe, when I do have an appointment with the President, I’ll walk to it. orb

Back to Index

 



























Cruises Offer Families an Unforgettable Reunion Experience
Photo Credit: Celebrity Cruises
Cruises offer family members the chance to reunite and relax.

  As the holidays approach and families gather to celebrate together, now is the perfect time to plan that big family reunion everyone has long discussed.
The challenge has always been finding the place where Grandma and the teenagers want to go — a place with activities for the 8-year-old twins and their 40-something parents, and where the college kids can get a cup of coffee and keep up with their online social network.
This can be a near impossible task, but there’s a remarkably simple solution. Best of all, it’s within the reach and budget of every extended family: a family reunion cruise vacation.
  Shipboard multigenerational vacations represent one of the fastest growing segments of the cruise industry for many reasons.
  Tops on the list: On a cruise, all family members can do whatever they want, when they want, individually or with others.
  There are babysitters for the youngest travelers, supervised activities for toddlers and young children, clubs and dances for teens, and a broad range of activities for adults and seniors.
  Depending on the ship, recreational activities may include climbing walls, ice skating rinks, fitness programs, spa treatments, cooking classes, wine tastings, and other opportunities
  Multiple choices of dining experiences and venues — from poolside snacks to the most elegant cuisine — ensure all guests enjoy themselves in the style and ambience they prefer.
  Daily entertainment, from movies to Broadway-style musicals, guarantees that every taste and interest is accommodated. And, in each port — there may be as many as six destinations visited during a seven-day cruise — a variety of shore excursions means land activities of interest to everyone.
  Other advantages of a family reunion cruise:
  • With pricing that includes accommodations, meals, entertainment, use of most of the ship’s recreational facilities, and travel from destination to destination, any cruise represents excellent value for the money spent. Cruise lines also make special offers to groups. These may include reduced fares for groups as small as eight and free berths for every 10 to 15 paying passengers.
  • Family groups may have the option to buy everything in advance, including cruise fares, onboard beverages shore excursions, spa packages and prepaid gratuities.
  • Further savings can be realized through reduced fares for third and fourth passengers in each stateroom.
  • Cruise lines offer vacations as short as a weekend, so there’s an itinerary to meet every family’s needs.
  • Family reunions may have opportunities to take advantage of accommodation upgrades, private events and special shipboard credits.
From voyages down the great rivers of Europe to the Caribbean’s tropical beaches, the diversity of cruise experiences means there is a cruise vacation for every interest and budget. orb

Back to Index

 






















Steel City Thriving With First-Rate Attractions & Ethnic Eats
By Dan Schlossberg
Bridges connect Pittsburgh’s 89 diverse neighborhoods.

  A city for all seasons, Pittsburgh glitters even when the leaves are gone and the crisp chill of autumn fills the air.
  Skyscrapers made of steel and glass stretch deep into the Western Pennsylvania sky, reflecting a balance of heritage and innovation. Boats slice through the three rivers that ring the city center. Football fans flock across a gold-toned pedestrian bridge to Heinz Field, home of the powerful Steelers.
  Perched in the Alleghenies, halfway between New York and Chicago, Pittsburgh is a college town with a low crime rate, low cost of living and high interest in sports.
  Vendors peddling black-and-gold souvenirs of all sorts dot every neighborhood in the Steel City. As the official palette of all three Pittsburgh professional sports teams, it is no wonder these two colors seem ubiquitous here.
  Both the Steelers and the Pirates moved to new riverside parks in 2001. The horseshoe-shaped Heinz Field, which seats 65,000 for both pro and college football, has an open south end that faces Point State Park, at the confluence of the Ohio, Allegheny, and Monongahela rivers.
  PNC Park, with a retro feel, fronts bridges and skyline, creating a vivid setting for the park’s frequent firework displays. The pyrotechnics celebrate the area’s own Zambelli Fireworks, one of the oldest and largest fireworks companies in America.
  Pittsburgh is a handsome city, thanks to hundreds of bridges and the constant parade of trains and boats.
  Its cityscapes are even more sensational when sampled from the top of the Monongahela Incline, a funicular that climbs Mount Washington. Steeper, shorter and older than the nearby Duquesne Incline, the Monongahela went into service in 1869. The 35-percent grade makes the climb an experience to remember, though the other incline (circa 1877) still uses its original Victorian carriers.
  Too many trips on the incline may explain Andy Warhol’s dizzying sense of design, revealed without censorship at the Pittsburgh museum that carries his name. The most comprehensive single-artist museum on the planet, the Andy Warhol Museum contains thousands of the Pittsburgh native’s works.
  It is one of four impressive in­stitutions that comprise the Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh – the others being the Museums of Art, the Museum of Natural History and the Science Center. Steel tycoon Andrew Carnegie established the museums more than 110 years ago, and today they are home to exhibits on Renoir, robots, rock formations and more.
  In addition to Warhol and Carnegie (a Pittsburgh transplant by way of Scotland), Pittsburgh has given the world legends like Perry Como, Lena Horne, Gene Kelly, Joe Montana and Mr. Rogers. Even Heinz ketchup, a creation of H.J. Heinz, hails from the Steel City.
  An entire floor of the Sen. John Heinz Pittsburgh Regional History Center is devoted to the evolution of the Heinz Company, with an exhibit of foreign TV commercials for pickles and baked beans. The six-story center also includes the Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum, featuring such Pittsburgh icons as Bill Mazeroski and Mario Lemieux, plus artifacts from the Pittsburgh Crawfords and Homestead Grays.
  Pittsburgh’s diverse heritage results in fun food finds for visitors. From Pad Thai to pasta to pierogi, authentic ethnic cuisine is prominent throughout the city at family-owned establishments, many of which have been around for decades. Several local eateries have even been featured on the popular Food Network show “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives.” For an authentic (if not healthy) Pittsburgh experience, order the Pittsburgh salad – a heap of vegetables topped by French fries.
  With its old-meets-new skyline, impressive muse­ums, and plethora of parks and neighborhoods, Pittsburgh is thriving. Old-timers from the steel mill days wouldn’t recognize the place. But they should try: Pittsburgh is within a day’s drive of more than half the population in North America. orb

Back to Index

 




















Sail Easy From Your Home Port
kidspool
Not having to buy airfare makes homeport cruising more affordable for families.

  A cruise is an adventure. If you live in New England, part of the adventure – a potentially expensive part — is getting to the port of call. Here’s your chance to escape to the Caribbean without having to foot the bill for two trips: one to fly to Florida and another to the islands.
AAA hosts two special 13-day homeport cruises on Royal Caribbean – one departing from Cape Liberty, N.J., in the spring, and another from Boston in the fall.
  “It’s become increasingly popular to sail from a home port,” said Charlotte Nichols, Manager of AAA Travel Sales and Marketing. “Our members have choices now that weren’t available a few years ago.”
  The Explorer of the Seas sails round trip from Cape Liberty to St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Barbados, Dominica, Antigua and Puerto Rico. The ship offers you the chance to do something you may not expect in the Caribbean – ice-skating.
  In the fall, the Jewel of the Seas will cruise from Boston to St. Thomas, St. Maarten, Dominica, Barbados, Aruba and Curaçao and end in Fort Lauderdale. On-board, find a rock-climbing wall and self-leveling pool tables.
  The fall cruise is ideal for New Englanders who migrate to Florida for the winter. “Imagine ‘moving’ south via a relaxing cruise ship!” Ms. Nichols said. Travel counselors can help you plan the return home. orb

Back to Index

 




























Burns Pays Homage to National Parks
By Christine E. McDermott
burns2
Photo by Jason Savage
Ken Burns films at Montana’s Glacier Bay National Park.

 If Ken Burns has it his way, Americans will soon be pouring through the gates of the U.S. National Parks.
 The acclaimed director — dubbed the rock star of public television — has been a fan of the parks since he was 6 and his father took him to Shenandoah, in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains. His newest film,  “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea,” does more than boast stunning footage. It brings to light the stories of people who fought their entire lives to preserve natural landmarks for generations of Americans.
Mr. Burns spoke with AAA Horizons, as the six-episode series was set to debut on PBS beginning Sept. 27.
 Q: It’s interesting that the history of the parks is so connected with personal stories. This isn’t a travelogue, and this isn’t just a nature film. This is the history of the ideas and the individuals that made this uniquely American thing possible. This is a story filled with great great drama. There will always be people who look at a beautiful river and think dam. They will look at a canyon and think what mineral wells can be explored. There were people in American history who said, “No” — big, capital letter, emphatic “no” — “think about saving a relatively small portion of our environment to have a glimpse of who we are.” It crosses all political spectrums. This is a look at creation.
 Q: The “Father of our National Parks” John Muir is prominent in the film. Were you glad for the chance to cast a spotlight on him? I think people will be stunned to think, here is a man whose name they may or may not have heard, and he’s one of the top 10 important people of all American history — throwing in Washington and Lincoln. This is a hugely important person who got us to understand what our potentiality is and who could articulate in a way that Americans would understand. Far and away, he’s one of the most compelling characters I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know.
 Q: How about others? We worked on this for 10 years, and people would say, “National Parks: Teddy Roosevelt.” He’s huge, wonderful and central, but he’s one character in our second episode. We introduce you to 50 or so people who are not just white and male and famous, but black and brown and red and yellow and female and unknown. That’s a wonderful story: This did not come from any kind of political correctness on our part — this is a natural occurring diversity we are celebrating here. The story of each park involves so-called ordinary people saying, “I want to save this for people I will never meet.”
 Q: Do you have a favorite park? They’re so varied and so interesting and so beautiful that it’s hard to just say, “Do you have a favorite?” It’s like a movie or a favorite painting — there are so many and they’re so different. Yosemite always holds a very special place in my heart. The Grand Canyon is funny: People describe going for the first time and being awestruck, but other times being less so. I was awestruck the first time and it just keeps getting better; I’ve been five or six times, and each time is better.
 Q: What was the first National Park you visited? In 1959 when I was 6, my Dad took me for a weekend alone — just the two of us —to Shenandoah National Park. We drove from Delaware, where we lived, to the Northern entrance. We drove down Skyline Drive, checked into a little cabin. We went on hikes and I can still remember to this day what his hand felt like holding mine, the songs that he sang to me that I’ve sung to my daughters. It was hugely intimate and transformational.
 Q: What’s the message of your film? We see this as the Declaration of Independence applied to the landscape — democracy with a small “d” working at its very best. What democracy does is it levels things. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a billionaire or working in the factory of a billionaire. You are a co-owner of the most spectacular oceanfront property, the highest free-falling waterfall on the continent, the greatest collection of geysers in the world and the grandest canyon on Earth. That’s a pretty great thing to own. It makes us all rich beyond belief.
 I think what we understood in the history of the U.S., in the early days, the parks were visited by the rich, who could afford the cost of cross-country railroad tickets and package tours. With the introduction of the automobile, it was the great democratizing factor. The parks were rebuilt to accommodate ordinary folks.
 The big debate in film school was whether films could actually get people to do anything or whether they just preached to the choir. I’ve learn positively that they do make people do things. So, what we want people to come away with is a sense of the glory — the complicated glory — of these amazing parks that we’ve set aside.
 But then, also, we want them to go to them. Today everybody’s so digitally preoccupied that some of these places aren’t getting the kind of visitation they were getting a few years ago. Let’s change that. Let’s have every park superintendent angry at you and me for spreading the word about the parks. orb

Back to Index

 





















New York Celebrates 400th Year Since Hudson's Discovery
By Dan Schlossberg

 

hudson
Albany will be a focal point of the Hudson 400 Celebration.

 He was English but flew the banner of the Dutch East India Company from the mast of his tiny ship. With little more than a sextant and a compass, he braved the dangerous North Atlantic, seeking a quick route to the riches of the Orient.
 Four hundred years after his Half Moon arrived in the New World, Henry Hudson’s name survives on the river he discovered, the surrounding valley, cities and counties in several states, and on buildings that sprang up on land once occupied by Native Americans.
 Hudson’s vessel left Amsterdam on April 4, 1609, and navigated north into icy Russian waters before heading west in search of the elusive Northwest Passage. His Dutch and English crew wanted him to return home but Hudson pressed on – motivated by a letter from Capt. John Smith in the new Jamestown colony.
 The Half Moon floated into New York Harbor on Sept. 12, journeyed upriver to Albany a week later and embarked on the month-long voyage home on Oct. 4. Though he arrived with beaver pelts instead of Chinese silks, Hudson told his sponsors, “This land may be profitable to those that will adventure it.”
 It was the biggest understatement of the last 400 years.
The Half Moon arrives again this September when a full-sized replica docks in Albany and offers public tours. A week after its mid-month arrival, the Hudson 400 Celebration marks the quadricentennial with music, fireworks and re-enactments of historic events.
 One of those events was Hudson’s befriending of local tribes, laying the groundwork for the settlements that followed. Initially called Beverwyck, Albany played key roles in the French & Indian and Revolutionary wars. Local merchants supplied the Continental Army and helped turn the tide in the Battle of Saratoga. The growing city later served as a transportation hub, government center and hotbed for arts, architecture and technology. River commerce boomed – especially after Robert Fulton invented the steamboat 200 years after Hudson arrived under sail.
 The epicenter of the yearlong Hudson 400 Celebration of Discovery, Albany continues to showcase its heritage through museum exhibits and educational programs featuring frequent appearances of a life-sized Henry Hudson doll. Festivals feature historic ships, riverside bonfires, Dutch-inspired tulips and music inspired by the Hudson’s changing seasons.
 Celebrations are continuing along the entire 275-mile corridor from Northern New Jersey, separated from Manhattan by the Hudson, to Plattsburgh, an upstate New York hamlet near the Canadian border.
 Thanks to Hudson, Dutch names survive everywhere. Watervliet Arsenal, an Albany County factory that made cannons and ammunition for the War of 1812, has exhibits on the evolution of artillery. Van Schaick, an 18th-century brick mansion at the confluence of the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, served as a military headquarters in three wars.
 Open for tours are the 36-room home of pre-Civil War president Martin van Buren, in Lindenwald, Columbia County; the 244-acre Essex County farm where abolitionist John Brown lived before leading the 1859 raid that resulted in his trial and execution; and the 54-room riverside mansion occupied by railroad tycoon Frederick Vanderbilt.
 Other places to celebrate in the Hudson Valley are the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, the Franklin D. Roosevelt presidential library in Hyde Park, Boscobel House & Gardens in Garrison, and Kykuit, the 40-room John D. Rockefeller mansion in Westchester County.
 Saratoga Monument, a 155-foot granite obelisk built a century after the famous 1777 battle, is part of a national historic park with a museum, movie and battlefield. Not far away are Saratoga Race Course, America’s oldest thoroughbred track and the adjacent National Museum of Racing. Restored Victorian bathhouses dot Saratoga Spa State Park.
 Henry Hudson would be pleased to know the lush river valley he discovered is thriving. There’s no better symbol of that success than Albany’s Hudson River Way, a pedestrian walkway that links downtown Albany to the banks of the river, telling the region’s story through a series of paintings and murals. orb

Back to Index
























Maine’s Waldo County Bursts With New England Charm
By Megan R. Weeden

 

maine
Captain Roy Reed offers a wealth of local history.

 Pristine water views, rolling green hills, classic New England charm and more lobster than you can imagine – this is Waldo County, Maine.
 My husband and I took a side-trip to this slower-paced part of the state on our way back from Bar Harbor – not realizing we actually could have made it our main destination.
 From Belfast to Searsport, Stockton Springs, Bucksport and Winterport (and 20 other towns) – Waldo County offers a true variety.
 About an hour and a half’s drive south from Bar Harbor brings us to Belfast – a growing artist community with lots of one-of-a-kind boutiques and mom-and-pop businesses like Colburn Shoe Store – the oldest in America.
 We acquaint ourselves with the impressive architecture of Belfast by picking up a walking tour brochure at the Belfast Historical Society & Museum. Settled in 1770 by Scottish-Irish families, the city made its fortune in shipbuilding and maritime commerce.
 Local shipyards built hundreds of wooden sailing ships during the 19th century and almost 30 percent of the male population was employed in the maritime trades.
 Prosperous shipbuilders and merchants built the restored Federal and early Victorian houses that dominate the historical district, placing it on the National Register of Historic Places.
 We grab a cup of chowder and a fresh lobster roll at Young’s Lobster Pound
(diamond1) – an authentic lobster pound overlooking Penobscot Bay – before checking into our room at the Penobscot Bay Inn (diamond3). The quaint inn sits on five beautiful acres overlooking the bay and served as our base for the area’s other attractions.
An afternoon spent strolling the art galleries, boutiques and shops in downtown Belfast makes us thirsty. We enjoy a drink by the outdoor fireplace at Three Tides – a hip little restaurant serving a tapas-style menu featuring fresh local seasonal shellfish and beer brewed next door at Marshall Wharf Brewing Co.
At night, we catch the latest film at the Colonial Theatre, an old-fashioned movie theater open since 1912.
 Nearby, in Searsport, an important seafaring hub, we get a sense of the area’s rich maritime heritage at the Penobscot Marine Museum. The main exhibits focus on the industry of Penobscot Bay in the 19th century and illustrate what it was like to live and work on one of the great square-rigged ships.
 The museum is known for its collection of fine 19th-century marine art, featuring one of the largest collections of Thomas and James Buttersworth paintings and several by Robert Salmon. Scrimshaw, figureheads, art and artifacts date from the “Great Age of Sail,” when Searsport’s sea captains visited ports around the world.
 Spread among 12 historic buildings, the museum includes a replica of a late 19th-century sea captain’s home to show the material world enjoyed by these families. Personal treasures from around the world tell the stories of their travels.
 Keeping with the maritime theme of Searsport, BlueJacket Ship Crafters is the oldest ship-model company in the United States. They have been building scale models and developing wood model kits since 1905, and their kits are sought after worldwide. Their showroom displays more than 75 completed models.
 Dinner at Angler’s Restaurant, also in Searsport, included more lobster and a lobster-eating lesson by owner Buddy Hall. We couldn’t resist the homemade Hot Fudge Ice Cream Puff for dessert.
 A five-minute elevator ride to the top of the Narrows Bridge and Observatory (42 stories above the river) gave us a 360-degree view of the surrounding countryside, including the Penobscot River and the picturesque town of Bucksport.
 Next to the bridge is Fort Knox. The famous 19th-century fortress features extensive dark passageways and cannons built to protect the valley from Naval attack.
 Though enemy ships never appeared on the Penobscot or threatened its towns, the fort saw two periods of military activity. Between 20 and 54 troops were positioned here during the Civil War while the fort was still under construction.
 The troops lived in temporary wood buildings behind the granite fort. Also, 575 troops from Connecticut lived at the fort for a month during the Spanish-American war.
 We made sure to save enough time to take in the natural surroundings of Waldo County and enjoyed a sail aboard the white-steamed-oak-and-mahogany yacht “Fedele” with Captain Roy Reed of Searsport Charters.
 Cruising past landmarks like Fort Point Lighthouse and Sears Island, Captain Roy gives us a wealth of local history.
 It’s as if time overlooked this quiet corner of the state, and we feel rested and relaxed as we make our way home.
orb

Back to Index














Call of the Wild: On the Lookout for Wolves in Yellowstone
By Sean Conneely
bear&wolf
A wolf follows a grizzly bear at Yellowstone National Park.
   Perched atop a treeless hill in Yellowstone National Park, a lone coyote surveyed the frosty winter landscape.
   Suddenly, the animal became agitated and, in a flash, sprinted through the knee-high snow. The reason for the coyote’s flight was clear a moment later when two wolves emerged from the pine forest.
In hushed reverence, our tour group spent the next 20 minutes observing the wolves frolicking (yes, wolves can frolic), howling and pawing at an elk carcass. Incredibly, the spectacular scene played itself out not more than a football field from our bus. One thing was clear: the wolves were back!
   This intimate sighting of Yellowstone’s newest resident, the gray wolf, was the highlight of the Winter Wolf Discovery Program. The three-day program is a joint venture between Yellowstone’s lodging concessionaire, Xanterra, and the Yellowstone Association, the park’s nonprofit, educational partner. In the nearly 15 years since the wolves were reintroduced here, the canines have become star attractions, with the number of wolf-watching tours growing each year.
   The Mammoth Hot Springs area, in the northern section of the Wyoming park, served as base camp for our tour; however, our destination each day was the vast expanse of the Lamar Valley. Yellowstone, specifically the Lamar Valley, has become the best place in the world for wolf watching, especially in winter.
   In large part this is because the valley receives less snow than the rest of Yellowstone, so bison and elk migrate here to forage — and the wolves follow.
   Wolf-watching tours start early, as the animals are more active just after sunrise. We criss-crossed the valley in search of wolves and other wildlife. Lamar Valley in winter offers other wildlife-viewing opportunities, including countless elk and bison and perhaps a soaring golden eagle.
   At lunchtime, we stopped at the Buffalo Ranch, a collection of rustic buildings where the Yellowstone Association runs a wide variety of field classes. At the ranch, we learned that the wolf reintroduction was not Yellowstone’s first major wildlife management project. In the early 1900s, the park’s bison herd had dwindled to a mere 26 animals. Park management brought domestic bison into the mix, and the intermingled herd was held at the Buffalo Ranch until it could sustain itself.
   After lunch, as we geared up for a snowshoe hike, two rival wolf packs entertained us with a resonant symphony of howling. We learned that wolves howl for a reason, and our guide surmised that this exchange was probably a territorial dispute.
   A number of Yellowstone’s animals have benefited from the return of the park’s top predator. As many as 11 birds and mammals — including grizzly bears — may feed on a wolf kill.
   The park has benefited, too. Wolf watchers, who hail from all over the globe, have proven to be a devoted group. Some track the movements of the wolves for days at a time, getting to the point that they can actually identify individual wolves. A University of Montana study suggested that wolf watching brings more than $30 million to the region annually.
   Our last wolf sighting may have been the most poignant. Parked at a pullout in the valley, and armed with an array of spotting scopes, binoculars and camera equipment, we spied a pack of wolves crossing a ridge.
   We learned that on this very hillside, a century earlier, park rangers carrying rifles would shoot wolves because they were regarded as nuisance animals.
   The wolves were now back where they belong. They were home.
orb

Winter in the Park
   A winter visit to Yellowstone National Park will give you lasting memories of snowy landscapes, steaming geyser basins and incomparable wildlife viewing. A number of operators offer snowcoach and snowmobile tours and guided cross-country ski and snowshoe trips. Park rangers lead a variety of programs at Old Faithful Visitor Center, Mammoth Hot Springs’ Albright Visitor Center and West Yellowstone’s Visitor Information Center. For information, visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/winteract.htm.

Back to Index















Camden, Maine: Where the Mountains Meet the Sea
By Poornima Apte
maine
A Maine vacation is incomplete without lobster.
   It happened nearly 10 years ago: My then 5-year-old daughter had dug into a vanilla ice cream cone from Camden Cone when she discovered something amiss.
   “I didn’t ask for nuts,” she said, discovering something small and hard in the cone. As it turned out, the “nut” was her tooth — the first of many she was to lose in the years to come.
We visited picturesque Camden, Maine, every year when the kids were little, and we still love to spend an occasional summer weekend in the town where “the mountains meet the sea.” Our favorite haunt has always been the set of cottages at Beloin’s, right on the water. Over the years, we have probably stayed in most of them.
   Recently, over an extended weekend, we decided to visit Camden again after a few years. We chose a spacious two-bedroom cottage right on the rugged coast. The girls were excited to wake up one morning and see a lobster boat in action. We decided then and there that we had to take a tour on one of the boats and check out Maine’s famous crustaceans up close.
   We hooked up on a boat off of Camden’s scenic harbor and watched as the captain reeled in the lobster cages. We had an occasional odd visitor for a while — but no lobster. Soon, we pulled one up but he was a baby — not quite the right size yet to harvest so we had to let him go. We finally managed to catch a couple and, much to the girls’ delight, even hold one up close — menacing pincers and all.
   Now that we had a look at Maine’s most famous catch, we decided to check out the Lobster Fest in nearby Rockland. We enjoyed watching the big parade on a sunny day and especially cheering anything remotely lobster-related. Of course, we had to indulge in everything from lobster rolls and boiled lobster. Now our experience was complete and we had the bibs (and hats) to prove it!
Sunday morning dawned with a heavy fog so we abandoned the idea of a boat tour to the Camden lighthouse. Instead, we decided to visit the Breakwater Lighthouse in Rockland. The walk up is nearly a mile long on large stones.    Numerous warnings before the start — “Uneven Surface,” “No Restroom” — didn’t deter us from making the trek through the fog and fine mist. It was a totally incredible experience made a tad surreal by the foghorn that blew every 10 seconds.
   Camden has seen a growth in new restaurants since we last visited. One of our favorites among the new crop is Paolina’s Way, which uses only organic ingredients and promotes a sustainable way of life through its entire dining experience — from its fixtures made from recycled elements to the local beers it serves. The Mediterranean pizza was awesome as was the beet salad special on the menu.
   Nearby, Mikado, a Japanese restaurant and sushi bar, seems to have taken over space previously occupied by an Indian outfit. Customers can pick up Mikado’s sushi at French & Brawn Marketplace next door for a quick lunch on the docks.
   On the last day, before we headed back home, we visited Camden’s famous eatery, Cappy’s Chowder House, to pick up some treats for the road. I couldn’t help but remember that this was the same restaurant where a decade ago my daughter had excitedly informed our waitress that the tooth fairy had left her “100 cents” under her pillow in exchange for her first tooth.
   Of course, we returned to Camden Cone. My daughter’s tastes have matured since her vanilla days but she agreed that the mint chocolate chip ice cream was just as sweet and delicious as the special treat she enjoyed years earlier.
Even if this time there were no hidden “nuts” tucked away inside.
orb

Back to Index






 

 
















Enchanting Budapest
By Adam McCulloch
budapest
The white Gothic spires of Budapest's parliament building glisten along the banks of the Danube.
   I’m taking a train back in time, crossing what was once the Iron Curtain from Vienna to Budapest. Having just spent five sunny days in Vienna indulging in fabulous food, art and opera and wowing it up with artists and intellectuals, I’m curious to discover how time has transformed its less fortunate neighbor, Hungary.
   Both cities were once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which, at its height in the early 20th century, included most of Eastern Europe. But after World War II, this broken empire followed two very different destinies.    While Austria received millions to rebuild her magnificent cities, Hungary and the other Eastern Bloc countries — nations with a vast cultural, artistic and architectural heritage — were divvied up in a secret deal between Germany and Russia and resolutely ransacked.
   As the train pulls in to Budapest, it’s as though this stark contrast is manifesting itself through the weather: The cobalt sky over Vienna has been replaced by a gunmetal gray gloom and oppressive drizzle.
   After dumping my bags at the hotel on the east bank of the mighty Danube — the river divides the old towns of Buda and Pest — I head over the Chain Bridge to Budapest Castle. It is still riddled with mortar holes from revolutions past and offers sweeping views of the city’s major sites. Even in the mist, the parliament building is an awe-inspiring vision, its white Gothic spires glistening like stalagmites.
   I wend my way back through squares dotted with busts, their faces green with copper-oxide. As much as I try, my damp jeans make it hard for me to get in the mood to immerse myself in one of Budapest’s famous baths. I stand outside the neo-gothic domes of the Széchenyi Bath, among the largest in Europe, and take a quick tour of the magnificent Art Deco Gellért Baths, a true architectural marvel and one of Budapest’s major attractions.
   Back at the hotel, I change into dry clothes and meet my guide Zsofi Bitto, from Unique Budapest, for a nocturnal city tour. She’s too young to remember the communists who vacated Hungary in 1989, but like many of her generation, she’s bubbling over with a newfound optimism as she watches Eastern Europe emerge from its torpor to become one of the world’s most alluring new destinations.
   We huddle under her umbrella and scurry through the streets toward a bar she knows in the Jewish ghetto. On the way, we pass the Moorish revival synagogue. Largely destroyed during the war and neglected for the 40-odd years that followed, it is the largest and surely most spectacular synagogue in Europe. After the fall of communism, cosmetics legend Estée Lauder, a native Hungarian, began an elaborate restoration that has reinstated it as the city’s pride and joy.
   The bar we’re seeking is a “Ruin Bar,” a term used to describe temporary bars set up in derelict buildings by enterprising young locals. Some, like Szimpla Kert, which is where we find ourselves, have become permanent legit fixtures, with an excellent restaurant and regular movie nights.
   I take my seat on a couch rescued from an old car headed for the wreckers. It launches me into the air briefly before I learn to tame the beast. In the center of a courtyard, the shell of a Trabant (a famously junky communist car) has been turned into booth seating. I find very quickly that saying cheers in Hungarian is a challenge. “Egészségedre,“ I stammer, over a glass of pálinka (traditional fruit brandy), and we head off into the night.
   Zsofi leads me down a dark alley and over a bridge to a Coney Island-style boardwalk on the Danube. Twenty-something kids are gathering to play games and dance. It’s late, I’m tired and, sensing my weakened state, Zsofi challenges me to a foosball tournament. By some miracle (and a little cheating) I win a round or two, but when a pair of local sharks plays doubles with us, I’m exposed for the charlatan I am.
   We head to the open-air dance floor where the lively crowd is braving the rain to sing every word of a Hungarian pop song. “The wind comes from the West but it blows to the East,” translates Zsofi.
   This scene – a heady, spontaneous celebration of life mixed with a sense of burgeoning national pride – is symptomatic of what is happening all over the former Eastern Bloc, and I’m thrilled to have been invited in. If I could only improve my foosball game.
orb

Back to Index

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In San Antonio, It's Not Just the Alamo That's Unforgettable
By Adam McCulloch
istanbul
Outdoor dining is prevalent on San Antonio's River Walk.
   The Alamo is smaller than I expected. But, while diminutive in stature, this national shrine looms large in the American psyche. Without it, the city of San Antonio — and quite possibly the entire country — would be a very different place.
 It was here in the mission’s chapel, in 1836, that the last of 250 Texans valiantly fended off the overwhelming Mexican forces intent on evicting them from what was then Mexican land. Today, the chapel décor is deliberately sparse: flags representing the fallen line the rough stone chamber; sunlight spills through a window where once a cannon stood sentry; in a vestibule, Davy Crockett’s flintlock rifle lays in a glass case.
 “He was the Bobby Kennedy of his day,” my tour guide said in a reverent tone, about the congressmen from Tennessee. “He supported the rights of Native Americans to own town land. He was a man of the people.”
 Crockett’s well-worn firearm took a nerve-wracking 30 seconds to load and, outnumbered six to one during the 90-minute battle, he simply ran out of time. If the Mexican forces thought such a crushing defeat would silence their guns, they were sadly mistaken. Americans enlisted in droves and ultimately Texas was claimed for the United States.
 After soaking in the history, I went to check out the adjacent gift shop. In spite of the coonskin caps, plastic rifles, knives and other tchotchkes, the Alamo experience is far from tacky. San Antonio is still much a military town (the local military hospital is one of the largest in the land) and, strolling through the battleground now verdant with gardens, I watch servicemen of every age quietly paying their respects.
 San Antonio was a hard-won piece of real estate and, over the years, grew to be the second-largest city in Texas. I soon discover there are two levels to this bustling metropolis: the sidewalk and the River Walk. Where others saw a flood prone river, architect Robert Hugman saw a nice pedestrian shopping precinct and, in the 1920 set about creating what today resembles a glam version of Venice. The canals are lined with shops, museums, galleries and cafes and host many fun events like canoe races.
 In a brightly painted electric skiff, I navigate the myriad canals. The fairy lights in the trees blink on, and the River Walk takes on distinctly festive mood: The air is heady with the smell of fajitas, and a muted trumpet barks out a solo.
 We stop to take in some “bad” jazz at Jim Cullum’s River Walk Jazz club. (By bad, of course I mean good: I’ve made an effort to take up the local vernacular during my stay.) The previous day I had eaten at Rudy’s Country Store and Bar-B-Q where they proudly serve “The Worst Bar-B-Q in Texas.” When owner Rudy Aue started researching barbecue restaurants he found that every place, no matter how revolting, claimed to be the best in Texas. “If this is the best, I’d hate to taste the worst,” he said, and made the opposite claim to accompany his lip-smackingly good food.
 This night’s feast is a more elegant affair. The Grand Hyatt Hotel just opened near the Alamo and River Walk (no mean feat for a large luxury hotel when you consider no building is allowed to cast a shadow over the Alamo). It positions itself as the cultural and social hub for cowboys, servicemen and society types alike. The cavernous interior of polished stone, chandeliers as large as solar systems and walls showcasing modern artworks is a far cry from the throw-your-peanuts-where-you-stand bars I had frequented previously.
 Local artist Kathleen Trenchard – who works in traditional Mexican papel picado (punched paper) — graciously shows us around before dinner. In a private dining room fashioned from chain-link curtains, she waxes lyrical about the exquisite mix of Latino and Anglo, highbrow and lowbrow that makes San Antonio tick.
 Places like the Buckhorn Museum and Bar, which serves free beer to anyone who brings in horns, or the Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum, a private collection of modern masters that provides a glimpse into a rather odd personality, and even the Schlitterbahn water park, where waterslides run up hills and guests are free to bring their own food and drink. Each one is a testament to the independent spirit that built San Antonio.
 It’s a wonderfully strange place — and well worth fighting for.
orb

Back to Index



















The Buck Stretches Here: Value Vacations Around the World
By Adam McCulloch
istanbul
Istanbul’s magical Blue Mosque.
   The greenback is under a cloud, but there is a silver lining: Many off-the-radar countries are wooing U.S. tourists with tantalizing promises of great deals, exotic food, forgotten civilizations and historic cities.
   You’ll get more bang for your buck and have the adventure of a lifetime to boot.
   Until recently, Iceland — a mossy moonscape of volcanoes, glaciers and waterfalls — was one of the more expensive countries in Europe. After the stock market lost 77 percent of its value in a single day in late 2008, however, the island nation suddenly became affordable to the average traveler.
   The landscape is still remarkable as ever, as are distinctively Icelandic adventures like riding famously well-natured Icelandic horses to a thermal pool for a cleansing dip.
   Another often-overlooked European gem is Turkey. Since 9/11, some American travelers may have felt nervous about visiting what is a predominantly Muslim country, but they’re missing out. The captivating capital Istanbul is as safe as any major European city and offers a plethora of exciting East-meets-West experiences at surprisingly good value — smart travelers can get by here on less than $80 a day.
   Wake early with the call to prayer and head to the 450-year-old spice bazaar for a slice of locum (Turkish delight). Dine at one of the city’s many rooftop restaurants for an unforgettable view across the minarets, Blue Mosque and the Bosphorus — the impressive strait that divides the European and Asian continents.
   Further afield, the South East Asian countries of Cambodia, Laos and Thailand are a bargain-lover’s nirvana (and with airlines slashing prices on international fares, getting there isn’t nearly as financially daunting as in the past).
   In Laos, a delicious steaming bowl of fresh noodles can be had for as little as $2, while simple clean accommodation starts from around $10 a night. In neighboring Thailand, the price is about double that — still a great value.
   In Cambodia, the Angkor temple complex, built by the Khmer people in the 1200s, is a must see. Join the magnificent pre-dawn melee of elephants, taxis, tuk-tuks, sidecars, cyclists and motorcycles as they make their way to Angkor Wat to watch the sun rise, then hit “Pub Road” in Siem Reap, a lively stretch of bars and restaurants that’s both entertaining and easy on the pocket.
   Closer to home, many countries in Central and South America offer outstanding value. The Argentine peso is one of a handful of currencies faring even worse than the U.S. dollar. At the time of writing, one greenback bought 3.7 pesos. In practical terms, that means lip-smacking organic steak dinners for $10 and a good room in a comfortable hotel in the heart of Buenos Aires for less than $80. Don’t miss Iguazu Falls, the second-largest waterfall on earth, around an hour’s flight north of Buenos Aires: It makes Niagara Falls look like a gently flowing stream.
   The Yucatan Peninsula might not be the most visited area of southern Mexico – the Mayan Riviera has that honor – but for those willing to trade in beaches and palm trees for culture, this region can be incredibly rewarding for both the soul and the wallet. Base yourself in one of the Yucatan’s picturesque, largely untouristed colonial cities – Merida or Valladolid – and make excursions to see some of the wonders of the ancient world in the form of Mayan ruins such as Chichen Itza and Izmal.
   If you want to go the top-shelf route, villa rentals are the perfect way to live like a king, especially if your plans involve several people. An entire villa on Mustique – an exclusive island in the southern Caribbean where Mick Jagger, Tommy Hilfiger and Bryan Adams own summer houses — can start from around $5,000 a week. It may sound extravagant, but split between two couples that’s just $178 per person per day. For that, you’ll get an architecturally designed two-and-a-half-bedroom Balinese-style villa that appears to float on a lotus pond, magnificent ocean views, your own 50-foot lap pool and a household staff of three, including a cook, maid and butler.
orb

Back to Index

































Bring an Appetite for Culture and the Arts to Montreal
By Kimberley Edgar
bagels   Anyone looking for a French connection – and then some – to arts and culture should consider cosmopolitan Montreal.
   While the city may have begun as a French-Catholic epicenter in North America, today it is du monde.
   With more than 80 different ethnic groups represented and 110 languages spoken, it’s a melting pot – and a stark contrast to the rest of predominantly French-speaking Quebec.
   “People here are never defined by their religion, ethnicity or race but by their mother tongue – Francophone, Anglophone or any language except French and English,” said Peggy Wilson, a professional tour guide.
   The most obvious centers of arts and culture are the museums – among them, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the McCord Museum of Canadian History, noted by AAA as “Great Experiences for Members,” or GEM attractions.
   But this city for all seasons – walkable all year – begs visitors to venture outdoors to take the pulse of the culture here today. With the menu of festivals running every summer – and including the world’s largest jazz festival – the Place des Arts becomes a focal point.
   Another good place to put down roots is where the settlers did – in Old, or “Vieux,” Montreal. This 94-acre GEM, its cobblestone streets and horse-drawn carriage rides never fades.
   Touring the historic area helps unlock past arts and culture – as do visits to the opulent GEM Basilique Notre-Dame de Montreal, among the most magnificent French-Canadian churches and one of North America’s largest, and the no-less-prominent Cathedrale Marie-Reine du Monde, a one-third-scale replica of St. Peter’s in Rome.
   Another GEM is Oratoire Saint-Joseph, one of the world’s largest basilicas, and its French-made 56-bell carillon. While these are popular gateways to the French-Catholic heritage, embrace the opportunity to venture beyond them into the many neighborhoods reflecting modern diversity.
   Chinese. Thai. Italian. Portuguese. Lebanese. Greek. Irish – they’re all here. A great way to crack a culture is to sample its cuisine.
   A line extends out the door of Schwartz’s Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen (1diamond), popular with locals for its smoked meats. Finally, it’s time to slide onto a stool at the counter – the first seat available.
   A Cambridge University student sits to the left. Within minutes, a Moroccan-born Muslim college student settles onto the stool to the right. “I like the meat here. You can’t find this elsewhere – it’s the only place I know that gives such a meat,” Abdelhak Saddiki said.
   Another must-visit is St. Viateur Bagels: Located in a Jewish enclave in the shadow of Mont Royal – North America’s second-largest Hasidic neighborhood – it’s open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year. While waiting for a bagel hot from the wood oven, peruse the notes, newspaper clippings, autographed photos and other memorabilia collected from renowned greats, including Bruins legend Bobby Orr.
   Cuisine at Café Melies – named for French filmmaker Georges Melies – is as independent and artistic as lobby neighbor Excentris film center’s foreign flicks are.
   But for anyone who wants to sample truly Quebecois fare, Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon (3diamonds), on Avenue Duluth, will unveil provincial secrets, including its one-of-a-kind “poutine au foie gras.”
   “Poutine can only be done in Quebec,” said Vanessa Beeching, one of the chefs. “It’s a very Quebec dish.” Be warned: The food here is not for the lighthearted. And, ensure you have reservations, especially on weekends.
   With some of the best chocolate sold a couple doors down ­– at Les Chocolats de Chloe – plan to arrive early and stroll the neighborhood between Rue St. Denis and Boulevard Saint-Laurent, savoring the sights, sounds and shopping.
   Other Montreal shopping meccas include the chic and trendy Laurier West, where it’s fun to window shop – and for those with money, to buy.
And Holt Renfrew – at rues Sherbrooke and de la Montagne – and Ogilvy – at rues de la Montagne and Sainte-Catherine – offer windows on fashion, culture and haute couture a la Montreal.
   There are plenty of places to stay, including the comfortable Delta Montreal
(3diamond) and family-friendly Holiday Inn Montreal-Midtown (). And set in a 1914 building with art-deco flair at the corner of Sherbrooke and Saint-Laurent, Opus Montreal (3diamonds) and its restaurant, Koko, with their attentive staffs, offer a unique boutique experience where just about anything goes.
   So, bring your appetite for the arts and multi-culture, and as you’ll hear often here, “Bon appetite.”
orb


Back to Index














































































Cruisin’ Big Sur: California Was Made for Road Tripping
By Adam McCulloch
goldengate
From rugged coastal cliffs to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California offers some of the most iconic driving routes in the country.
  California, it seems, has two seasons: whale-watching and wildfire.
  In fall, migrating gray whales make a mad dash along this very coast, from the rich feeding grounds of Alaska to the warmer breeding waters of Baja Mexico, all the while being pursued by hungry killer whales while locals gather at the headlands to cheer them on.
  The fires tend to follow before the whales return in late spring. When my wife and I made the decision last summer to take a road trip along Big Sur, from Los Angeles all the way to Sonoma and Napa Valley, we failed to take nature’s traditions into account and found ourselves driving into a region beset by hundreds of raging infernos.
  Still, a bit of smoke and some closed roads weren’t going to deter us, so we took a deep (smoke-tinged) breath and pointed our rented Prius north along Highway 1.
  In spite of its popularity as a tourist route, for the most part Highway 1 is a reed-thin lifeline for residents of Big Sur. The road was built in 1937 but, even today, many areas are totally off the grid. Big Sur literally means the Big South: Before Highway 1 came along, it was considered a treacherous wilderness where only the hardiest souls sought to make a living.
  The traces of this region’s frontier past are still all around: As the day warmed up, a light breeze chased away the fog, revealing a panoramic vista of craggy bluffs and twisted pines. After a few hours on the open road, we pulled into a turnout at Sand Dollar Beach and scanned the horizon for dorsal fins. A fat seal dozed on the shore, oblivious to his small audience of bemused seagulls.
  The beaches and parks of Big Sur offer many reasons to break the trip. Jade Cove is famous for the abundant deposits of its namesake stone (it’s also a spectacular hang-gliding launch site). Willow Creek is favored by surfers. And an underground stroll to Partington Cove offers a glimpse of the region’s past as a logging reserve where the hulks of old equipment are gradually returning to sand.
We overnighted in San Francisco before heading north across the Golden Gate Bridge to wine country. Sonoma and Napa Valley are hallowed ground for winemakers.
  Often such a big reputation brings with it the spoils (and spoilage) of mass tourism. Sonoma is different. Not all wineries possess cellar doors. Many that do are by appointment only and — as we discover at a family-owned winery called Iron Horse — all charge a nominal fee for a flight of wines. Our $10 bought us three small glasses of sparkling wine and a spectacular view of Mount Saint Helena.
  Sonoma and Napa incorporate a multitude of climates, producing everything from pinot noir and chardonnay to zinfandel and gutsy cabernet sauvignons. We punched in the wiggliest route option through the vineyards of Sonoma and Napa into the Prius’ GPS and wound our way toward the village of Bodega Bay, the location for Alfred Hitchcock’s film “The Birds.” In several places, the road thinned to one lane to squeeze between giant redwoods. We stopped to watch a deer pick her way across the road; when the electric engine took over from the petrol motor it was pin-drop quiet.
  We admired the backwoods charm of Bodega Bay, with its ice-cream shops and clapboard cottages, before heading through the Russian River region, named for the settlers who planted the first vines here 200 years ago.
  We had previously attempted to eat an enormous, still-warm sticky bun at Wild Flour Bread Bakery in Freestone (they even mill their own grain) and were keen to follow our indulgence with some exercise. Soon we stumbled upon Goat Rock and Sonoma Coast National Park. A dozen islands — only marginally larger then the remains of the sticky-bun — were scattered throughout the bay.
  Against the stark beauty of the steely sky, a flock of gulls headed south to Bodega Bay, possibly with the purpose of living up to their Hitchcockian reputation. The smoke from the wildfires had cleared and the air was salty-fresh with anticipation. Surely nature’s second act, the whales, couldn’t be far off now.
orb

Back to Index


















Could Queens Be Next to Take New York's Center Stage?
By George Awad
newyork
At the Louis Armstrong House Museum in Queens, hear Satchmo himself, relaxed and in conver-sation in the room where he loved to spend time.
  Our tour guide pushed a white button on the wall near the door, and the gravelly voice of the great Louis Armstrong came through the sound system in what was his den. On the recording, reporters were asking the legend if he liked the music of The Beatles, to which he responded, “Yeah, they got a beat” and then followed it up with one of his trademark gregarious laughs.
  It was my favorite moment at the Louis Armstrong House Museum in the Corona neighborhood of the underrated borough of Queens, New York. I got to hear Satchmo himself relaxed and in conversation in the room where he loved to spend time.
  His house was modest from the outside but the interior — from the tinfoil wallpaper in the master bedroom’s closet to the bright blue, state-of-the-art kitchen — brought to mind Graceland in all its over-the-top tackiness.
  Most of my friends in New York didn’t know Louis Armstrong had a house in Queens, which is understandable. But what really surprised me was that some of these same friends had never even stepped foot in Queens, period. Although New York is a bulging metropolis, less than 5 miles separate Manhattan and Queens.
  Yet what I found on three separate visits to the borough within a week really did seem a world away from the spotlight shining exclusively on Manhattan and, these days, on Brooklyn. Queens has a rich complexity, sporting a cultural fabric vibrant with contributions from people the world over. Plus, the food is fantastic.
  In fact, according to the Census Bureau, Queens is the most diverse county in the United States and its inhabitants speak more than 138 languages. I met up with Tom, a friend of mine, and he drove us on a blisteringly cold January day from the Armstrong House to Flushing, where one could hear at least a handful of those languages spoken.
  Flushing has many tall buildings and plenty of traffic. It also has a large Asian population, particularly Chinese, and its Chinatown is almost as chaotic as its Manhattan counterpart. We had delicious Malaysian food at Sentosa. We then wandered around the Asian supermarkets, examining the exotic vegetables and fish on display.
  From there, we drove to Fort Totten, a decommissioned fort administered by the city’s parks department. Designed by Robert E. Lee, the Civil War fortress sits on the banks of the Little Neck Bay with a scenic view of the Throgs Neck Bridge.
The next day, my brother Mike and I headed to the neighborhood of Astoria, across the East River from Manhattan. As soon as we got off the N train, we spotted a restaurant, which reminded us of our hunger. Uncle George’s Tavern is the perfect ambassador to the heavily Greek culture of Astoria. We devoured a hearty meal as we watched whole lambs roasting on the rotisserie.
  We worked off the calories by walking to the Socrates Sculpture Park, an outdoor showcase for modern sculpture with an up-close backdrop of Manhattan’s upper east side. The sculptures themselves were a mix of found objects and colored materials.
  Not a few blocks away from the park is The Noguchi Museum, dedicated to the work of Isamu Noguchi, the world-renowned American sculptor. The museum, housed in a large warehouse, showcases not just his sculpture but also his interior and landscape design.
  On my third visit to Queens, I took aim at Jackson Heights, a neighborhood with large South Asian and Hispanic populations. At Merit Kabab Palace, I sampled some South Asian street snacks, including a deliciously seasoned chicken kabob.
  Jackson Heights is teeming with pedestrians, busy shops and heavy traffic. Surrounding the melee is a quiet residential section, home to many of the neighborhood’s families. I enjoyed walking around the place but couldn’t quite leave without a visit to the renowned Jackson Diner for an Indian buffet lunch.
  As I ambled out of the restaurant, I found myself floored, not just by the tasty food, but also by the diversity of culture and activity found in Queens, a borough that can’t seem to find the spotlight.
  Yet.
orb

Back to Index











































































Find Natural Phenomena Along the Coast of New Brunswick
By Alan R. Earis
waterfall
New Brunswick Department of Tourism and Parks Photo
Waterfalls and other natural wonders are easily accessible to visitors at Fundy National Park in New Brunswick.
  If there is one overriding impression that New Brunswick provides it is something akin to déjà vu. When you cross the Maine border, as most who venture there from the states do, the topography is certainly much the same, but beyond the many similarities are a host of subtle surprises.
  While similar in size and population to Maine, the province in most areas seems far emptier and quieter. And while the houses and the people often seem like New England transplants — and indeed, most of the English-speaking population claims descent from Bristish loyalists who fled the American Revolution — there’s also a disarming distinction, detectable in manner of speech, food and sports passions. So just when you think you’ve arrived at a place much like home, you’ll be jarred by something you didn’t quite expect.
  It all adds up to a wonderful experience because New Brunswick has so much to offer. Along the coast, there are farmhouses, unspoiled vistas running to the sea, quiet coves interspersed with occasionally busier settlements and a few substantial cities, such as Saint John.
  As one advances north and east, deeper into the Bay of Fundy, the tides become ever more pronounced, at some points varying by as much as 50 feet in the course of a day, making them the highest in the world. The Reversing Falls – actually intermittent rapids, created by the outflow of the Saint John River and the inflow of the famous Bay of Fundy Tides – is one result. The phenomenon can be viewed from Fallsview Park in Saint John or from commercial tour boats.
  Similar but smaller flows exist elsewhere in the Maritimes, including the “Tidal Bore” on the Petitcodiac River near Moncton, the largest metropolitan area in the province and a great place to find the most diverse selection of restaurants in the province. Moncton is a good jumping off point for trips to Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island or northern New Brunswick.
  Moncton is home to another natural phenomenon that rivals the tides, namely “Magnetic Hill,” which is situated so it provides the faint illusion of having your car roll “up” a hill without being in gear. For this experience, drivers must pay a fee but the real hope of the locals is that you’ll stop in at the adjacent golf course, zoo, narrow-gauge railway, gift shops and theme park that share the same Mountain Road interchange along the Trans-Canada Highway.
  But jumping directly to Moncton risks missing the coast beyond Saint John, which offers plenty to see and do. Don’t miss the famous “flower pot rocks” at Hopewell — an amazing collection of pillars and vaults carved by tide and wave (the nickname comes from the resemblance of the trees atop the rocks to houseplants perched on plant stands). At low tide you can explore their bases.   A few hours later you can paddle through the same spot by kayak, with your footprints washed away 40 feet beneath your keel.
  The coastline is dotted with numerous arts and crafts emporia, campgrounds, tidy motels and B&Bs.
  Of course, the inland areas of New Brunswick are destinations in their own right. Most of the history, people and destinations are clustered along the river valleys of the province. Start your exploration of the Saint John River Valley, from Nackawic, which claims, without any exaggeration, to be home to the world’s largest ax – a gigantic piece of sculpture that dominates the little downtown and the nearby shoreline.
  The River Valley Scenic Drive continues northwest and includes four seasons of unspoiled beauty as well as interesting stops such as the Potato World Museum in Florenceville (original home of McCain Foods, the world’s largest producer of French fries), and the world’s largest covered bridge in Hartland.
Further north, the salmon-rich Miramichi River connects the like-named city and Fredericton and first nation “Micmac” reservations. For those looking for a more rugged experience, the possibilities are almost limitless.
  In short, there’s more to see and do in New Brunswick than you will probably have time for. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth giving it a try.
orb

Back to Index



















Multifaceted Toronto: From World-Class Art to a Shore Museum
By Lauren Carter

toronto
Take a break from the museums at an outdoor cafe.
  Combining cosmopolitan flair and cultural diversity with that infamous Canadian politeness, Toronto has a charm all its own. Not as hectic as New York City – but not exactly slowpaced either – the country’s largest center is best described as a city that naps when it needs to rather than one that never sleeps. The result: a perfect place for a relaxing getaway with plenty of stimulation.
  Loaded with art galleries, museums, markets, theater and other attractions, the downtown core can easily be explored on foot, by tour bus or via the city’s excellent transit system. Give the kids “one more time” down the four-story corkscrew at the Delta Chelsea (), the only downtown hotel with a waterslide, and head out to get the big picture at the CN Tower.
Nearly 2,000 feet tall, the fa­mous needle-shaped tower provides an unsurpassed view.
  Watch the skyscrapers shrink as the elevator climbs to the observation deck. Through wraparound windows, watch sailboats sliding across Lake Ontario. If you’re truly courageous, take to the glass floor — capable of holding the weight of 14 large hippos.
  A few blocks north, the Art Gallery of Ontario displays a world-class collection including European, Canadian and African art. Climb external spiral staircases lined with windows to see pieces by the country’s most famous artists. Recently reopened after a redesign by Toronto-born celebrity architect Frank Gehry, the building is an artwork itself.
  Known as the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, the contemporary glass and metal addition to the stately Royal Ontario Museum raised some Torontonian’s eyebrows when it was unveiled in 2007. Spend an afternoon touring exhibits drawn from a collection of over five million objects, including Egyptian mummies and bones and fossils from ancient creatures like the cast of a giant sea turtle skeleton estimated at 74 million years old.
  Just west on Bloor Street, check out treasures from 4,500 years of footwear at the Bata Shoe Museum, including Marathon of Hope runner Terry Fox’s single Adidas running shoe and sandals crafted from yucca plants some 7,000 years ago by Southwestern U.S. dwellers, the Anasazi. Kids have fun playing dress-up in several pairs, including ruby slippers a la Judy Garland.
  Direct your walking shoes onto the subway and head north to Dupont Station where a short trek uphill leads to the city’s only authentic castle. Complete with turrets, secret passages and extensive gardens, Casa Loma was completed in 1914, less than a decade before its commissioner, Sir Henry Pellatt, declared bankruptcy. He and his wife were forced to leave the opulent $3.5 million home with its billiard room, marble-floored conservatory and other rich features.
Cross the street for a guided tour of Spadina Historic House and Gardens, a more typical upper-class home of that era. Original William Morris wallpaper and period furnishings and a traditional Victorian garden bring visitors to this Edwardian mansion and acreage back in time.
  Enough attractions exist in Toronto for several visits. Sports fans should head to the Hockey Hall of Fame, while history buffs will enjoy Old Fort York and the St. Lawrence Market, operating in the same spot for 200 years. The perfect place to grab breakfast or picnic ingredients, the market is abuzz on Saturday mornings with vendors selling baked goods, seafood and every vegetable imaginable.
  After a full day, drop the kids off at the Delta Chelsea’s supervised Children’s Creative Centre to play Wii, and head for some adult decompression. From the pool area on 27th floor, enjoy another great view of the sparkling city while soaking in the hot tub.
  Downtown might not be ready to sleep, but after so much satisfying sightseeing, you will be.
orb

Back to Index















































































































Traveling with a Clean Conscience
By Adam McCulloch
When Star Island Resort opens in the Bahamas, it will be the standard against which future green resorts will be measured.
   Kermit the Frog was right: It’s not easy being green. With a plethora of hotels and tour operators touting environmental stewardship, distinguishing between the many shades of green can be a daunting task.
   From the simple practice of hotels asking guests to reuse towels to the complexity of generating solar power, the term green has come to mean many different things. Standardizing eco-tourism is close to impossible.    The water habits of a green hotel in rainy Ireland would be considered an environmental disgrace if located in the desert of Morocco.
   Thankfully organizations like Green Globe make traveling responsibly a little easier. To attain this ecological badge of honor, tour companies must satisfy 10 criteria. Among them are energy efficiency, waste minimization, recycling, wastewater management and the involvement of staff, customers and communities in environmental issues. Green Globe members are evaluated on their efforts and rated accordingly.
   However, with more than a hundred similar eco-tourism organizations worldwide and no governing body, even the best intentions can add to the confusion. Every ecology-minded hotel or operator should belong to at least one such body and have awards from several more. If they don’t, saving the planet is probably not their first, second or even hundredth priority.
   Perhaps the easiest credentials to evaluate are that of new hotels. In today’s architectural circles, LEED certification — Leadership in Ener­gy and Environmental Design, developed by the U.S. Green Building Council — is the hallmark of sustainable design. An architect can accumulate LEED points for designing with environmental materials and ideas in mind. David Sklar is an architect/environmental advocate currently building a resort in the Bahamas called Star Island. He intends to attain the highest LEED honor, a platinum rating, through innovations like reverse osmosis and rain harvesting on everything including roofs and roads, geothermal temperature control, low-volt L.E.D. lighting, extensive recycling, green building materials and native landscaping. It’s an ambitious project and certain to be the standard against which future resorts will be measured.
   Historic buildings can be said to offer the ultimate in recycling – simply through the fact that many are re-purposed – but because of their often antiquated design they frequently face greater challenges in living up to modern environmental design standards. Look for hotels that make ample use of natural light, ventilation rather than air conditioners and energy-efficient light bulbs.
   Tour companies are only as green as the vendors, guides and hotels they use, so once again, don’t be afraid to ask for their eco-credentials. Environmental policies should be easy to explain. Planting trees, recycling water, funding orphanages, feeding breakfast leftovers to chickens — all are good, straightforward ideas. If your tour company or hotel can’t explain its green policies without resorting to confusing jargon, chances are they’re not really serious about their commitment.
   Some environmental logic can be counterintuitive. Flying great distances is one of the most damaging things a person can do to the environment, partly because the carbon emissions are deposited high in the atmosphere where they are not easily washed away by rain. Before any trip, measure and assuage your guilt by visiting Carbonify (www.carbonify.com), Travel Matters (www.travelmatters.org) or Terrapass (www.terrapass.com), three Web sites allowing travelers to calculate their carbon footprint and compare various transport options. The intent is for guests to purchase carbon credits to offset their trips. To avoid feeling like you’ve just bought nothing for something, look for projects that channel money into specific projects that interest you, like reforestation in an exotic locale or methane capture at a local farm.
   To travel with a clean conscience, you don’t need to possess the ultimate solution to saving the planet. All that’s required is an inquisitive mind and the willingness to reuse the towel rather than throw it in.
orb

Back to Index