aaalogo Long Island's Montauk: Lots of History for a Small Town

aaalogo Scandinavian, Scottish Cities On Deck for Voyage

aaalogo Slow Down Your Vacation With a Ride on the Rails

aaalogo Experience 'The Legend of Sleepy Hallow' in New York

aaalogo Go VIP on This Exclusive Voyage

aaalogo Involve Teens in Planning School Vacation Week Travel

aaalogo A Tale of Two Cities: Sydney and Melbourne

aaalogo Laidback, Beautiful Uruguay Worth a Trip in Its Own Right

aaalogo In the Bahamas, You'll Learn to Relax to Caribbean Time

aaalogo Philly Has So Much To Do, You Could Forget the Liberty Bell

aaalogo Kinsale: Newport's Irish Sister City

aaalogo A Dream Cruise Down Under

aaalogo Live on Stage: Humpback Whales and Harbor Porpoises

aaalogo A European Cruise Lets Your Stretch Your American Dollar

aaalogo In This Storybook Village, You Become Part of the Passion

aaalogo Montreal's Obsession: Music, Dance, Good Food & Good Times


aaalogo The Unusual and the Glamorous in Hong Kong

aaalogo Hiking's a Great Way to Explore California's National Parks

aaalogo On a Quest for the Perfect Picnic Spot in Sonoma Valley

aaalogo Find Life Both Simple and Extravagant in India's Rajasthan

aaalogo 7 Days of Heaven! Maximize Your Disney Vacation

aaalogo Travel and Tourism Industry Doing Its Part to be Eco-Friendly

aaalogo Even in the City, The Pacific Northwest's an Outdoor Nirvana

aaalogo Travel Where the Big Ships Can't Take You on a River Cruise



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Long Island’s Montauk: Lots of History for a Small Town
By Dan Schlossberg
longisland
KKMPhotos/Long Island CVB
George Washington commissioned Montauk Lighthouse.

  Long Island has two counties, one interstate, a summer season that swells the populations of its seaside towns and many surprises, including a phalanx of wineries that stand where potato farms once thrived.
  Another of those surprises is Montauk, a seaside hamlet near the tip of the South Fork and the terminus for the Long Island Railroad and the Old Montauk Highway.
Named after the Montaukett tribe discovered by Dutch explorer Adriaen Block in 1614, Montauk was inhabited by fishermen, farmers and cattle ranchers before the advent of the car allowed tourists to take advantage of the white sands, rolling surf and temperatures that are cooler than the city in summer but warmer in winter.
  Hotel chains and fast-food restaurants are banned by local ordinance but the 3,851 year-round residents don’t mind – especially because the length of the traditional summer season keeps growing on both ends.
  The landmark Montauk Lighthouse, commissioned by President George Washington, is the oldest active light in the Empire State and fourth-oldest in the nation. Its beacon and foghorn warn ships not to stray too close to the rocky shoals that jut into the ocean from Montauk Point. Visitors may climb the 137 steps to the top of the tower.
  Minutes by car from the celebrity-heavy Hamptons, Montauk is light-years away in spirit. It’s a typical shore town, famous for fishing, surfing, sunning and sightseeing – with more historical points of interest than might be expected in a town of its size.
  Captain Kidd, the legendary pirate, allegedly buried booty in Montauk, at a site now called Money Ponds. Remains of a British warship wrecked in 1781 now form the only underwater park in New York State. Even the notorious ship Amistad carved a niche into history: It moored in Montauk after a mid-ocean mutiny, and white crew members told the rebels they had returned to Africa. Soon recaptured, the slaves were eventually freed.
  For centuries, the only structures in Montauk were the lighthouse and three houses. But entrepreneurs purchased the land from the Indians and extended the Long Island Railroad with an eye toward shortening the sailing between New York and London. That didn’t work – the surrounding waters were too shallow for ships – but the land proved the perfect place to quarantine Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders, who returned from the 1898 Spanish-American War with malaria and other tropical maladies.
  Over the next 25 years, travel by car became so popular that politicians turned Montauk into a tourist destination. Robert Moses sandwiched Montauk with two state parks – Hither Hills to the west and Montauk Point to the east – and four more came later.
  Montauk also made maximum mileage from the shark fishing trade. The home of the largest recreational and commercial fishing fleet in New York State, Montauk claims more saltwater fishing records than any other port in the world. The one-time whaling port also had annual cattle drives, with residents from the rest of Long Island keeping livestock in the area (the Deep Hollow Ranch remains the oldest cattle ranch in the United States).
  Cars have replaced the cattle trucks, although many visitors arrive by train from New York, boat from Block Island or Connecticut or even private plane. Famous faces abound: the Rolling Stones wrote “Memory Motel” while staying at Andy Warhol’s Montauk home and Billy Joel, a long-time summer resident, wrote “The Downeaster Alexa,” named for his daughter, about a fisherman’s journey through Montauk Sound.
  With so many fishing boats cruising in and out of Montauk Harbor, the seafood served in restaurants is certifiably fresh. The Sea Grill at Gurney’s Inn (3diamond) and Gosman’s Dock Restaurant (2diamond) are two of many eateries with waterfront views. orb

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Scandinavian, Scottish Cities on Deck for Voyage
By Kimberley Edgar

norwaycruise
AAA’s Exclusive Member Voyage: from the the bustling docks of Denmark to breathtaking fjords of Norway.

  One began as a fishing village and rose to be one of the world’s premier design cities, the glittering capital of the Danish Empire.
  Another boasts the world stage where Nobel Prizes are awarded annually with the Norwegian king in attendance.
  The third offers the Royal Mile, a bustling succession of many cobbled streets from a castle to a ruined abbey with an eclectic mix of tourist shops, eateries and historical attractions en route.
  They are Copenhagen, Oslo and Edinburgh – three cities that will help unlock Scandinavia and Scotland’s charm and history while cruising through God’s country – the breathtaking Norwegian fjords – on AAA’s Exclusive Member Voyage.
Here are some highlights:
Copenhagen
  The adventure begins and ends in Denmark’s capital city, where one can join The Little Mermaid at her perch before exploring the city’s smorgasbord of sites. Rent a bicycle and peddle to any one of the churches or castles with spires punctuating the horizontal skyline – Frederik’s Church, or Marble Church, is modeled on St. Peter’s in Rome and its dome, 100 feet in diameter, is Scandinavia’s largest church dome.
Oslo
  With the Norwegian capital set against a backdrop of serene peninsulas and wooded hills, the most impressive way to arrive is by sea. AAA Travel Manager Charlotte Nichols, who lived in Scandinavia, re­commends strolling Karl Jo­hans gate, the main street that hits all the sites – the royal castle, Parliament, national theater, museums, parks and stores galore. Holmenkollen is a hop, skip and ski jump away.
Skagen, Denmark
  This northernmost tip of Denmark divides the Skaggerrak and Kattegat straits, and one can see the waves clash together from a sandy, shifting headland. Low yellow houses with red tiles roofs nestle in the impressive, wild landscape formed by severe desertification in the 1700s and 1800s. The famous Buried Church protruding from the dunes remains as a sea marker and reminder of nature’s ravages.
Vik, Norway
  A combination of glacial landforms and outstanding beauty vaulted the fjords of Geirangerfjord and Naeroyfjord onto UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2005. A handful of nearby sites of interest include the Hopperstad Stave Church, a medieval wooden church with post-and-beam con­struction. Built around 1130, it has a sculptured Gothic altar-baldachin, or ornamental canopy, ceiling decorations and paintings depicting the childhood of Christ.
Flam, Norway
  Most of the 450,000 annual visitors to this village of about 500 enjoy the spectacular 12.5-mile railway that twists and turns through 20 tunnels between Flam and Myrdal. The adhesion railway is the third steepest in the world. “There’s breathtaking beauty, you wouldn’t want to miss, and between the rail ride and the scenery, getting to the fjord is part of the fun,” Ms. Nichols said.
Bergen, Norway
  It might be the people. It might be the comfort. It might be the reminders of home in this walkable city. Though she can’t quite put her finger on it, Ms. Nichols lists Norway’s second-largest city – a proud town of hard-working laborers who earn their livings at sea – as one of her favorite cities. “It’s the gateway to the fjords,” she said.
Invergordon, Scotland
  Take a relaxed, scenic drive contrasting gentle wild moors and rugged mountains from this gateway to Scotland’s High­­lands, and one might see a shepherd calling his sheep, dog at his side and whistle echoing through the hills. “You’ll see hundreds of sheep heading toward him from everywhere. The sheep dogs are there to herd them from miles away,” said Jane Moir, Auburn Travel Counselor.
Edinburgh, Scotland
  It’s not unusual to see Scottish gentlemen wearing kilts while strolling the Royal Mile, a walkable route from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Abbey, adjacent to Holyroodhouse, home to the Royals for centuries. “The Honours of Scotland”– a.k.a. the Scottish crown jewels: crown, sword and scepter – are in Edinburgh Castle as is the Stone of Destiny, returned to Scotland from Westminster Abbey in 1996.
Newcastle upon Tyne, England
  On the bank of River Tyne, the city owes its name to the Norman castle built in 1080, by Robert II of Normandy, the eldest son of William the Conqueror.     Surrounded by medieval town walls, Newcastle boasts two cathedrals, including the Anglican St. Nicholas and its elegant lantern tower. Also noteworthy is the two-pin steel arch Tyne Bridge, the prototype for the more famous Sydney Harbour Bridge, in Australia. orb

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Slow Down Your Vacation With a Ride on the Rails
By Megan Gorzkowski

traindin
The views outside one’s cabin on the Rocky Mountaineer are so extraordinary the train does not travel at night.

  All aboard! The whistle blows and the engine chugs, leaving behind a puff of steam and all of your worries.
  As you press your face to the window, the landscape changes from high desert plains to prairie to ponderosa pine forests. Strolling musicians provide an onboard soundtrack that evokes the Wild West.
  Two hours and 15 minutes after pulling out of Arizonaís Williams Depot, the train eases in to Grand Canyon Depot – just 200 yards from the edge of the South Rim.
  There are other ways to travel to this natural wonder, but a ride on the Grand Canyon Railway sets the mood for an experience of a lifetime.
  Rail travel offers the chance to slow down your vacation, see places from special vantages point and honor nostalgia for days gone by. Here are some favorites:
Grand Canyon Railway
  One of the most popular train trips is the Grand Canyon Railway, according to AAA West Peabody Travel Counselor Rosemarie Scovil.
  Your journey begins at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel (3diamond) in Williams, near Route 66. After a night at the hotel and a morning Wild West show, you’ll cross the street and board the vintage locomotive. Throughout the ride, Railway staff members provide entertainment, including music, poetry and storytelling.
  “The staff takes very good care of you. They are very attentive and are great at interacting with passengers,” said Judy Carney, AAA Barrington Travel Counselor.
  Upon reaching the Grand Canyon, you can participate in a number of activities, including the narrated motorcoach rim tour, offering an exclusive up-close view.
  After three hours at the Canyon, guests board the train back to Williams. Be prepared for some surprises on the return: Wild West train robbers are known to appear from time to time!
Rocky Mountaineer
  Our neighbor to the north features some spectacular rail riding. Trips through the Canadian Rockies are popular pre- and post-Alaskan-cruise excursions, but are also worth a trip in their own right.
  AAA Leominster Travel Counselor Colleen Cuddhay highly recommends traveling on the Rocky Mountaineer railway for the ultimate Rockies experience.
  “You are able to travel further into the Rockies than you could by motorcoach,” said Ms. Carney.
  The Rocky Mountaineer train offers several route and seating options, all including meals and hotel accommodations.
  “You can find an experience that fits your budget,” said Ms. Scovil.
  Unlike many other railroad trips, the Rocky Mountaineer is an all-day train ride; it stops at night and guests stay in hotels. Days onboard are filled with the wondrous scenery of Western Canada. View the picturesque snow-capped mountains, raging rivers and beautiful forests — all from the comfort of your spacious seat. Keep an eye out for the occasional bear or moose.
Eurail
  Across the pond lies the European rail network, covering 160,000 miles and rivaling the U.S. highway system in size and scope. This extensive train system provides an affordable, reliable way to explore the continent without worrying about airport hassles or driving in a foreign country.
  Passengers can purchase rail passes for a single or multiple countries, or an entire region of Europe. Discounted tickets are available for groups, seniors and youth under age 26.
  Trips include the Eurostar Disney Train, connecting London and Disneyland Paris, and the European East Rail Pass, including unlimited trips between Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia. orb

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Experience ‘The Legend of Sleepy Hollow’ in New York
By Megan Gorzkowski

sleepyhallow
Eerie characters tell stories at Halloween festivities in Sleepy Hollow, N.Y.

  Halloween outings often consist of haunted houses, hayrides and pumpkin picking. This year, do something different and take a drive to one of the most famous spooky spots in all of literature — Sleepy Hollow, N.Y.
  Sleepy Hollow, formerly known as North Tarrytown, served as the backdrop of Washington Irving’s classic short story “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” following Connecticut professor Ichabod Crane and the phantom Headless Horseman.
  The town today is not just for ghosts, but for families of all ages looking for something fun and frightening.
  The Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze, beginning Oct. 4, is the largest Halloween event in its region. This nighttime spectacle, located at Philipsburg Manor, features more than 4,000 hand-carved pumpkins displayed in impressive arrangements including dinosaurs, spider webs, ghosts and this year’s new Stonehenge exhibit.
  For those looking for some­thing spookier, consider Legend Weekend Nights, held Oct. 18, 19, 25 and 26. Look out for ghosts, pirates, witches and other eerie characters as you wander the haunted grounds of Philipsburg Manor.
  Join master storyteller Jonathan Kruk, who will perform scary stories, including Irving’s famous tale, throughout the eventful weekend.
A new addition to this year’s events is the performance by some spooky, large-scale puppets. These puppets were inspired by Superior Concept Monsters, the company behind New York City’s Greenwich Village Halloween Parade.
  To continue the “Legend of Sleepy Hollow” experience, you cannot miss the Old Dutch Church and Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. According to legend, the church and surrounding burial grounds were where the Headless Horseman was said to ride each night.
  The adjacent Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is the final resting place of Washington Irving, Andrew Carnegie and William Rockefeller. Nighttime lantern tours of the cemetery are available Oct. 18 and 25.
  For some daytime Halloween fun, visit Sleepy Hollow on Oct. 25 and 26 for Legend Weekend Days. This event includes two different celebrations: one at Philipsburg Manor, and one at Washington Irving’s Sunnyside estate, located in nearby Tarrytown.
  At Philipsburg Manor, celebrate autumn in 18th-century fashion with colonial games, open-hearth cooking and pumpkin carving. The Sunnyside events include a variety of fun Halloween activities such as sing-a-longs, puppet and magic shows, and more.
  For more on Halloween events at Philipsburg Manor and Sunnyside, visit www.HudsonValley.org or call (914) 631-8200. For more on the Old Dutch Church and Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, visit www.SleepyHollowCemetery.org. orb

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Go VIP on This Exclusive Voyage
By Megan Gorzkowski

norway
A bird’s eye view of Norway’s coast.

  You’re invited to explore the spectacular Norwegian Fjords and the magical history of Scotland on AAA’s 2009 Exclusive Member Voyage. The 10-night cruise sets sail May 23, on Holland America’s new MS Eurodam ship.
  Your journey begins in Copenhagen, Denmark, the picturesque home of Hans Christian Andersen. Before boarding your ship, be sure to visit the capital city’s landmarks, including the “Little Mermaid” statue and Tivoli Gardens. Arrange for a bicycling tour to get the most from this Danish city.
  From the port in Copenhagen, the ship sails to another Scandinavian capital city: Oslo, Norway. Day excursions are available for a wide range of sightseeing adventure. Vigeland Sculpture Park, for example, tells the story of humanity through more than 150 bronze and stone sculptures. The Viking Ship Museum features three excavated Viking longboats dating as far back as 900 A.D.
  From Oslo, your tour continues to Skagen, Denmark, known for its beautiful beaches. Then, after a day at sea, visit the Norwegian farming villages of Vik and Flam. Take the Flam railway for a nine-mile tour of the fjords, an unforgettable experience.
  The next stop is Bergen, the second-largest city in Norway and the birthplace of famed composer Edvard Grieg. Music continues to be a major feature of the city today. Be sure to take a funicular ride up Mount Floien, for one of the most breathtaking views in all of Norway.
  Next on the itinerary is the United Kingdom. In Scotland, search for the elusive legendary monster in Loch Ness. In South Queensferry, visit Edinburgh Castle, home of Mary Queen of Scots. In Newcastle upon Tyne, take a historical journey to Hadrian’s Wall, an ancient Roman monument, and Blackfriars, a 13th-century Dominican monastery. From Newcastle, you’ll return to Copenhagen.
  While the itinerary for this cruise is remarkable, the ship is just as spectacular. Christened in 2008, the ms Eurodam is the first of Holland America’s Signature Class. Exclusive features include Spa Staterooms, equipped with the finest amenities, and the Culinary Arts Center, presented by Food & Wine magazine.
  “What better way to see the beautiful fjords of Norway and the rugged coast of Scotland than on Holland America’s newest ship,” said William Sutherland, Vice President of AAA Southern New England’s Travel Agency.   “We absolutely wanted to do one of our featured premium cruises on the Eurodam, and of all the itineraries we looked at, this was the most unique.”
The Exclusive Member Voyage includes several benefits only for AAA members. Members receive $100 shipboard credit per cabin, and are invited to an onboard cocktail party and an exclusive document luncheon.      Also, members will be joined onboard by an experienced AAA travel host.
“There will also be many other surprises to make this vacation a dream come true,” Mr. Sutherland said. orb

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Involve Teens in Planning School Vacation Week Travel
By Megan Gorzkowski

teentrav
Travelers try zip-lining on a Royal Caribbean excursion.

  School may be just back in session, but now is the time to start thinking vacation. If your family likes to travel during school vacation weeks, the earlier you book, the better: Reservations fill up quickly during these peak times and prices increase dramatically as the dates draw closer.
  While it can be challenging to find a locale that appeals to parents and teenagers, involving your children in the research and planning is a fun way to maximize your family’s vacation enjoyment. Encourage everyone to share their ideas on what they hope to get out of the trip. Narrow your choices by setting a price range and geographic region.
  When it comes to picking a destination, why not start by looking at your teen’s curriculum this school year. Many popular vacation spots offer a range of educational experiences unlike anything found in a textbook.
  If your teen is learning American history, for example, plan a road trip to historical hotbeds such as Boston, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C. All three cities – particularly the nation’s capital – offer plenty of famous attractions with free or inexpensive admission.
  If ancient civilizations are in the lesson plan this year, a trip to the Mayan Riviera, where you can tour the pyramids and other archaeological ruins, is the perfect choice. Robin Paul, a Travel Counselor at AAA Narragansett, said this Mexican destination is one of the most popular locales for families with teens.
  While in the Mayan Riviera, be sure to get a bird’s eye view of the landscape with a zip-line ride over the trees. Take a quick ferry ride to Cozumel and snorkel in the Great Maya Reef, the world’s second-largest barrier reef.
  If your family is looking for a vacation that offers a bit of everything – whether it’s education, adventure and relaxation – then consider a Caribbean cruise. These vacations allow families to visit many locations, even many different countries, in one trip.
  “There’s so much for parents to do, and for teens to do,” said Lynn Natale, a Travel Counselor at AAA Worcester.
  The warm port cities are perfect for a winter break, with various activities like boating, shopping, lounging on the beach or sightseeing. The offerings continue onboard the cruise ship. Royal Caribbean International, for example, has iceskating rinks, rockclimbing walls, and other sports. Many cruise lines host teen-only clubs and lounges for a safe and fun hangout.
  If you want a more traditional vacation, Ms. Paul suggests Walt Disney World Resort, saying it is “always a wonderful destination” for families with teenagers. Downtown Disney features shopping, dining and entertainment centers, such as Planet Hollywood and House of Blues.
  The four theme parks offer thrilling rides and incredible shows. Teens should check out the new “American Idol Experience” at Disney’s Hollywood Studios, slated to open in early 2009, where they can audition before judges and perform before a live audience for a chance to be on the television series.
  Not everyone flees to warmer climates during the winter months, however. If your family wants to make the most of the cold and snow, look no further than New England. Ski resorts provide a close-to-home getaway with plenty of winter activities for teenagers. Loon Mountain in New Hampshire, for example, offers ice skating, sledding, snowshoeing and tubing in addition to skiing and snowboarding.
  Ski trips are a cost-effective school vacation choice. Many lodges offer discount packages with lessons, lift tickets and rentals. Consider renting a cabin for your family to stay during the week; you will save on meals and feel more at home than you would in a hotel room.
  No matter what school vacation your family decides to take, the most important thing to remember is to pick somewhere with something for everyone. orb

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A Tale of Two Cities: Sydney and Melbourne
By Adam McCulloch

australia

Even from above, the Opera House dominates Sydney.


  In Australia, I am no ordinary tourist. I grew up there and, as an adult, lived in Melbourne and Sydney for seven years apiece. Now, living in New York, I find I’m torn between the two Australian cities I know and love best.
  The Rock and The Reef (Ayers Rock and the Great Barrier Reef) should be on everyone’s itinerary, but with limited time in a vast sunburned country, choosing one city over the other is often a dilemma. I loved Melbourne’s social life but, in later years, felt I’d outgrown the city and favored Sydney’s flashy harbor and sparkling beaches.
  Nothing could beat a stroll over the sandstone cliffs along the Bondi to Bronte Walk for meditation and invigoration. (In October the annual Sculpture by the Sea festival turns the walk into an outdoor gallery par excellence.) But the bay beaches were what I cherished most: hidden gems like Parsley Park, Cobbler’s Bay and Shark Bay — perfect destinations for a picnic and a bottle of wine. These delightful crescents of golden sand shaded by morton bay figs were often inhabited by gaudy, raucous parrots.
  After five years in New York, Sydney now seems full of exotic animals (something many Aussies dismiss as well-intentioned tourism propaganda). The last time I rolled my eyes at such a claim, I was chatting with a visitor from Britain atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge. I was immediately silenced by a flock of 20 airborne pelicans flying in perfect formation not three feet away.
Later that week, a southern right whale and calf made Sydney Harbour their home. Kangar­oos on main street? Why not. For a surreal perspective of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House, catch a ferry to the zoo from Circular Quay and view the iconic duo over the heads of giraffes, lions, tigers, and bears.
  Sydney excels at outrageous spectacles — whales, Mardi Gras, the Olympic Games — but, living there, I missed Melbourne’s subtle sophistication and food scene, which informs every aspect of the culture. Sydney has great restaurants — Tetsuya often ranks with New York’s Per Se and Napa’s French Laundry as one of the world’s best. But when it comes to price, there’s not much middle ground.
  Virtually every Melbourne suburb has a plethora of small bistros of all budgets and styles and a delectable farmer’s market. A Melbourne itinerary should read like a culinary treasure hunt. Grab a copy of “The Age Good Food Guide,” and map your route according to your dinner and lunch reservations. Along the way, you’ll experience subtle charms of suburbs like the seaside splendor of St. Kilda, sophisticated South Yarra, grungy Fitzroy and Federation Square in the city. The Frank Gehryesque entertainment center is always abuzz with activity.
  Both cities offer delightful day trips. To the north of Sydney lies Palm Beach, Australia’s answer to the Hamptons. It’s here that many Aussie actors stay between movies to catch up with family and friends.
  To the west, the Blue Mountains beckon. The world heritage site resembles a lush green miniature Grand Canyon full of indigenous art, sacred sites and forgotten forests of wollemi pines. For an invigorating splash, hike down to the base of Bridal Veil Falls and let the water pummel you from 500 feet above.
  Day trips from Melbourne are no less dramatic. In March, I drove the Great Ocean Road, Australia’s version of Big Sur. The monolithic Twelve Apostles, giant sandstone pillars rising from the pounding surf, always heralded the return point. This time I ventured on via the new Great Southern Touring Route which takes in the Grampians mountains. In four days I saw giant waves at Bell’s Beach, ate magnificently at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld (voted the best rural restaurant in Australia) and saw hundreds of kangaroos roaming precipitous cliffs and prairies dotted with gnarled gums the size of semi-trailers.
  On returning to Melbourne I repaired to a wine bar with my brother-in-law to ponder the choice between cities. After hours of debate over creamy cheeses, spicy chutney and countless glasses of spectacular wine, this is my conclusion: I love Sydney on the outside and Melbourne on the inside and that’s a nice dilemma to have.
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Laidback, Beautiful Uruguay Worth a Trip in Its Own Right
By Nadine Banks

uruguay
Punta del Este is Uruguay’s stunning beach-resort town.

  We were driving through rolling green farmland reminiscent of Pennsylvania, but this was Uruguay, and the street was lined with palm trees so tall and identically perfect, they were mesmerizing.
  When this street among the trees opened up to a highway, there were more sights to catch my attention. Frequently, drivers carrying groceries — and sometimes children — maneuvered mopeds up the side of the right lane as cars sped past them. Going even more slowly were the cyclists and pedestrians on the shoulder. Yet, I was surprised to see the occasional horse and buggy also fighting for a share of the road.
  I had convinced my friends that, while on vacation in Argentina, we had to visit Uruguay. We had come all this way and were not likely to plan a separate trip. After researching the country’s charm and diversity, I had dreams of living there permanently, but we compromised on two days.
Our first stop was Casapueblo, a hotel and art museum on the cliffs near Punta del Este. Local artist Carlos Paez Vilaro who still lives and works there, designed the building. The museum houses paintings by the artist, who was obviously inspired by Picasso.
  After the five-hour drive from Colonia, this was the perfect spot to take a break and enjoy the view while grabbing a bite to eat. Located where the Rio de la Plata meets the Atlantic Ocean, the solid white structure would be at home near the Mediterranean. Lacking right edges, it resembled a slightly melted marshmallow. Some of the rooms had their own pools, and we decided this is where we would stay on our next visit.
  From here, it was a short drive into Punta del Este, the resort for the rich and famous in South America. We were early for high season but there was a lot of preparatory action at the beaches, shops and hotels. We want to return when the beaches and yacht club are in full swing.
  The next morning, we started back and took a break around the midway point, Montevideo, one of the world’s safest capital cities.
  Driving into town, we found a street market along the main thoroughfare. We parked on a side street and were trying to figure out how to pay for parking when a man in an official-looking orange vest quickly came out of a nearby store. We paid him, put the receipt on the dashboard, and headed to the market.
  This was one of the best markets we shopped on the trip. It had a wide variety of quality merchandise; the vendors were helpful without being pushy (even though most didn’t speak English); and many accepted U.S. dollars, making changing money unnecessary.
  This bustling city that managed to retain a relaxed feel whetted our appetites for another visit. After two hours of shopping, we started our drive back to Colonia to catch the return ferry to Buenos Aires.
  When we started our two-day sprint through Uruguay, we agreed we would visit Colonia last and only if there was time. Luckily, we had an hour or so to check out this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  Colonia was the ideal ending to two days of rushing through the country. Its cobblestone streets and 18th-century architecture relaxed us right away and, rather than hurrying through town, we were content to find a café overlooking the water and soak up the atmosphere. We could have spent a week here, enjoying the scenery, shops and cafés.
  We originally planned the trip to Uruguay because we thought it may have been the only time we’d make it to this country nestled between Brazil and Argentina.
  But, by the end of the two days, we agreed Uruguay is worth visiting in its own right.
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In the Bahamas, You’ll Learn to Relax to Caribbean Time
By Kimberley Edgar

bahamas
“Welcome to paradise” is a familiar greeting in the Bahamas.

  Gilligan and his crew didn’t know how good they had it – a deserted island all to themselves – no phones, no lights, no motor cars.
Surrounded by the beauty of the Earth on their uncharted desert isle, they had little to distract them, and they practiced the fine art of relaxing. With the ever more frenetic pace of American life and the constant, mobile sensory overload, one wonders if anyone really knows how to relax these days.
  There are plenty of island getaways that offer opportunities for escape and renewal for the worn and weary.
  But one Bahamian resort appears to have unlocked the secret to the perfect balance of rest and recreation through a fusion of seclusion with community with people and nature. The resort is restoring guests one at a time.
  Those willing to part with cell phones, iPods, laptops, e-mail, Blackberrys and other devices will, within hours, learn how to relax and find freedom they’ve craved.
  “Here in our island paradise, there is little to connect you to the real world,” said Michael Hartman, Tiamo owner. “Instead, we stay focused on the simple, natural beauty of South Andros Island and your comfort.”
  The decompression begins in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla., where we stand at the airline counter and begin to step into the slower pace of Bahamian island life.   The agent takes her time helping a couple of gentlemen ahead of us.
There is no rush – after all, the islands aren’t going anywhere.
  Our destination is Tiamo, an intimate resort set on a secluded beach on the dense, largely impenetrable South Andros, the largest island of the Bahamas chain.
  Named “La Isla del Espiritu Santo” – or the “Island of the Holy Spirit” – following the arrival of the Spanish in the 1550s, the island was a backwater of the Spanish empire.
  Today, slightly more than 6,000 people live on the island of mud flats and mangroves and bisected by tidal creeks, brackish bights and east-west-running rivers. It is the least populous island in the Bahamas.
  After a one-hour flight, we land in Congo Town, one of the three major towns on Andros, and check through customs before our taxi driver, Timmy, transports us to a dock, where Tiamo’s water taxi collects us and whisks us across the mottled sea foam green, turquoise and deep blue water to our retreat.
  We approach what appears to be an island but is a secluded section of South Andros inaccessible by road.
  As we draw near, we see a hammock hanging in a stand of coconut palms, a welcome invitation to kick back and relax.
  Spires of sailboat masts pierce the sky thrusting one’s gaze upwards.
At night, the heavenlies are so studded with stars that, save those shooting across the black velvet backdrop in graceful arcs, it resembles a rhinestone cocktail dress.
  The staff greets us: “Welcome to Tiamo. Welcome to paradise.”
Indeed it is.
  We gather in the clubhouse to review the “rules” – there are few – before settling into our bungalows, each with its own screened in wraparound porch that allows the gentle breezes crossing the island and moving through the trees to whisper us to sleep each night.
  Andros has the “Big Yard,” which is more than 140 miles long and is the world’s third-largest barrier reef.
  And there’s a host of activities in the offing at this camp for adults: kayaking through a seabed with a constellation of starfish bigger than one’s hand; snorkeling at “the Crack,” a fabulously deep gash in the sea floor, and with dolphins in the sea; sailing; swimming; bonefishing and others.
  Guests can watch their bungalows turn into spas when local masseuse Val Exton works her healing hands over sore muscles and gives them a massage for their souls.
  Food, served family style at dinner, is a vital part of the restorative efforts at Tiamo, and the resort invites guests who are interested in relaxing in the kitchen to learn to cook mouth-watering Bahamian fusion dishes such as Bahamian baked macaroni and cheese stuffed with crab mousse.
  And a guest can always choose to recline on the beach or in a hammock and read or not do anything at all and forget time until the sun sets.
  “We do everything by the sun here,” said Leesa Fountain, an intern working at the resort this summer. “The time is definitely Caribbean time – it’s really flexible.”
  That translates to “when you get to it.”
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Philly Has So Much To Do, You Could Forget the Liberty Bell
By Adam McCulloch

franklin
Many visitors to the Philadelphia Art Museum never make it inside; they just come to see the steps from “Rocky.”

  I meant to visit the Liberty Bell — honest! Along with the Constitution and Declaration of Independence, it was my excuse for visiting Philadelphia. As I walked along Chestnut Street I could see quite clearly a queue of eager tourists waiting to view the bell up close. I resolved to wait for the hoards to disperse and set off to explore the city.
  I fell in love with Philly food at the Reading Terminal Market. It wasn’t the culinary cliché, the cheesesteak, but rather the delicate finesse of sticky buns, made fresh by Amish bakers from Lancaster County. The markets are a melting pot of theological foods. Halal Middle Eastern stalls sit aside Hershel’s Eastside Deli (a Jewish institution) selling pulled meat rolls, knishs and smoked fish so delicate and perfect, they appear to have been dipped in gold.
  After breakfast I jumped on the Big Bus, the least conspicuous of the four tour bus companies (hey, at least it didn’t resemble a tram) and took a tour of the surrounding neighborhoods. The glorious centerpiece of Center City is the City Hall. Completed in 1901, it resembles an exquisite wedding cake and, at 548 feet, is still the world’s tallest masonry building.
  Neighborhoods like Society Hill and Washington Square have boomed over recent years, a gentrification affirmed by the appearance of enormous murals. Philadelphia’s Mural Arts Program started in 1984 to channel frustrated kids into more productive projects than graffiti. Now with 2,700 remarkable murals (the most of any city) all of Philly has become an outdoor gallery.
  For me, Philly has always been about art. Apart from exhibitions of exceptional quality (think Tutankhamun), the venues themselves are often so sparsely populated, they sometimes seem closed.
  I hopped off at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, made famous in the movie “Rocky.” Many visitors never enter. They run up the steps, hold their hands aloft, then descend to photograph the “Rocky” statue sidelined near the curb. (I discovered later that the museum begrudgingly agreed to place “Rocky” on their land; I can’t help but feel they should embrace their role in the national psyche by installing the statue at the top of the stairs.)
  I ventured inside and discovered a new favorite exhibition: In the European collection, entire rooms dating back hundreds of years have been saved from houses in London, New York and beyond and filled with antiques and paintings. It felt more like a plush home than a museum.
  My three-day tour quickly became a whirlwind of galleries. I took a spin through the Perleman Building to marvel at psychedelic 1980s kimonos and the Museum of Natural History for a quick dinosaur fix. I peeked at the Rodin Museum and the gloriously gruesome Mutter Museum with the petrified soap lady, Siamese twins, unicorn woman and giant skeletons.
  In the Masonic Lodge, I discovered century-old meeting halls decorated with preposterous amount of ornamentation — wood, marble, gold, the works — only to find the whole thing was made of plaster. Finally, I visited the pirates exhibition at the Franklin Institute, where I saw the bell from the sunken Wydah ship and learned that pirates, unlike merchant seamen, shared their loot and were treated rather well. Who knew?
  Spending three days in Philly is like spending a week in New York, and with smaller crowds, you can pack in so much more. I’m not suggesting you rush your visit. Philly life is pretty laidback. At the end of each day, I repaired to a restaurant (the other thing the city excels at) and feasted on Spanish at Amada, Middle Eastern at Zahav and Asian fusion at Buddakhan.
  With my belly and brain bulging with new experiences, I headed for the train station. When the cabby dropped me off, he asked, “So how’d you like the Liberty Bell?” I just nodded and smiled. Maybe next time.
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Kinsale: Newport's Irish Sister City

By Steve Sheppard
kinsale
Photo by Neil Hogan
In the heart of Kinsale, the White House is where the relation­ship between Newport and its sister town in Ireland began.
  Coming into Kinsale on the R600 from Cork City, and rounding the last bend into town where the harborfront suddenly reveals itself, a first-time visitor from New England may find the scene somewhat familiar.
  There, the masts of sailboats seen against the backdrop of the old town evoke images of other, vital ports back home. If you weren’t in Ireland, you might just think you’d arrived in Newport, Rhode Island.
  The association wouldn’t be far off. Since 1999, Newport and Kinsale have been “twinned” as sister cities, and the marriage has been welcomed on both sides of the Atlantic ever since.
  The two towns are active in their relationship. Every year, representatives from each port participate in festivities geared toward keeping the twinning vital, with an annual spring trek to Newport from the people of Kinsale and a fall visit to the Irish town by a delegation from Newport.
  Nestled on the southern coast of West Cork, Kinsale, with its meandering, narrow streets, bustling downtown and rows of brightly colored antique houses that overlook the snug harbor, is an inviting gem in Ireland’s crown. Renowned for its place in Irish history, Kinsale today is internationally recognized for its fine dining, active waterfront and natural beauty.
  Just a short drive or bus ride from Cork City, Kinsale is one of the oldest and more picturesque towns of the Emerald Isle. A drive or a walk along the coast reveals panoramas of green, majestic hillsides, and rugged cliffs that border the ocean.
  A good place to start your visit is at the top of the town, at the Spaniard, Kinsale’s oldest pub. Here, sawdust is still strewn daily about the stone floor and the inviting smell of peat emanates from the fireplace. As befits the town’s deserved reputation as the “Gourmet capital of Ireland,” the food is excellent, either at lunch or dinner.
  From the Spaniard, take the High Road into Summercove, where you can spy the town from the other side of the harbor at the Bulman, voted the best pub in Ireland in 2005. With Kinsale’s temperate climate, patrons often enjoy a Guinness, the sunshine, and the view at one of the Bulman’s outside tables.
  A couple hundred yards up the road is Charles Fort, built by the British in 1677 to guard the entrance to Kinsale Harbour. Here, surrounded by lush grounds, you’ll learn of the famous Battle of Kinsale, where Irish chieftans enlisted the help of the Spanish Armada in 1601 to drive the English from Ireland. The defeat of the combined forces by England, however, spelled the end of the Armada as a naval power.
  Facing Charles Fort across the bay is the older James Fort, built by the British in 1602, with payment exacted from the Irish because of their support for the Spanish in the previous year’s battle.
  On the outskirts of town, open countryside leads to the Old Head, where breathtaking views of the harbor and the Atlantic await. The Old Head is home to a worldclass, exclusive golf course, where some holes are a nine-iron away from the cliff’s edge.
  Back in town, the landmark White House hotel and restaurant fronts the main road. The origins of friendship between Kinsale and Newport can be traced here.
  Rhode Island Congressman Patrick Kennedy and former State Rep. Paul Crowley, who represented Newport’s predominantly Irish Fifth Ward for 27 years, met with White House owner Michael Frawley Sr. and the idea of sharing customs and common traditions took shape.
  From the beginning, the emphasis has been on food, with Kinsale’s chefs invited to host a “Kinsale Festival of Food” in Newport in the week before St. Patrick’s Day. The Kinsale Town Council, moreover, regularly participates in the city’s famed St. Patrick’s Day Parade. Newport’s top chefs return the favor in the fall by hosting “A Taste of New England” in their sister town.
  The partnership has broadened to include sailing competitions, golf classics and rugby. The Kinsale rugby team will tour New England this year, with stops in Boston and Newport. Next year, the Newport Rugby 7’s team is poised to take part in Kinsale’s “Rugby Sevens by the Sea” during the first weekend in May.
  Yearround, the people of Kinsale welcome visitors from around the world, lending to its metropolitan atmosphere. Festivals dedicated to the town’s maritime and culinary heritage are held from spring through fall, with the Kinsale Food Festival scheduled to be held this year October 10 to 12. The celebrated Kinsale Fringe Jazz Festival, where many of the town’s hotels and pubs host top bands from throughout Ireland, Europe, and, yes, America, is planned for October 24 to 27.
  Whatever the season, Kinsale’s beauty, history, and hospitality awaits.
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Seeing, Staying and Eating in Kinsale

By Steve Sheppard

  A first-time visitor to Kinsale would do well to take a narrated bus tour. Roadrunners Tours feature personable and knowledgable guides and operate from nearby Cork City, with regularly scheduled trips to Kinsale and Blarney Castle. Visit www.roadrunners-tours.com for more information about these informative and entertaining tours.
  Accommodation abounds in Kinsale, but it is wise to book ahead, especially during the summer months and the weekend of the fringe jazz festival in late October. The Perryville House, with views of Kinsale Harbor, is one of the finest hotels in Ireland, and features stately and comfortable guest rooms.
There is also the Old Presbytery, a four-star Georgian townhouse.
  Kinsale’s reputation as the gourmet capital of Ireland is well-deserved, and there are scores of fine restaurants, featuring everything from fresh seafood, to mediterranean-influenced cuisine to traditional Irish fare. A favorite of visitors for years has been Jim Edwards, located downtown at Short Quay. And don’t miss Crackpots at 3 Cork Street, a wonderful, year-round restaurant where you can also purchase the hand-thrown pottery that dinners are served upon. A short trip out of town, in Brownsmills, is Oyster Creek, known for its excellent seafood chowder.
  As for pubs, there are none better than Muddy Maher’s on Main Street, Dalton’s at 3 Market Street, and the Tap Tavern, located at the foot of the 11th-century Saint Multos church, where King Charles II was proclaimed King of England in 1660. A visit to any of these fine establishments will immediately set a traveler at ease.


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A Dream Cruise Down Under
wellington
Like San Francisco, New Zealand’s capital city of Wellington boasts a stunning coastline surrounded by rolling hills that can be traveled by cable car.
  It’s the stuff of dreams: a 14-night cruise Down Under to experience some of the world’s most incredible modern architecture, miles of breath­taking coastline, vast mountains, ancient forests and active volcanoes.
  Imagine sitting back on your veranda, watching the sun wash over Sydney’s famed Opera House as you sip an afternoon cocktail.
  Or, after an exhilarating day of shopping in the chic district of Auckland, New Zealand, treating yourself to a chilled sorbet back on­board the ship.
  It’s the stuff of dreams – and it’s also the stuff of AAA Southern New England’s 2009 Distinguished Member Cruise.
  You’re invited on board Celebrity Cruise Lines’ Millennium, setting sail next March 15 from Auckland to Sydney.
  The itinerary includes Tauranga, Napier, Wellington, Christ­church, Dusky Sound, Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound, New Zealand; and Melbourne, Australia.
  “This trip was planned based on many inquiries from members about running a trip to the land Down Under,” said William Sutherland, Vice President of AAA Southern New England’s Travel Agency. “There was a tremendous amount of interest in us organizing a cruise like this.”
  Because this is the AAA Distinguished Member Cruise, you’ll receive the royal treatment – invitations to an exclusive document and preparation luncheon, as well as an onboard cocktail party, and the security of knowing a host from AAA will be on the cruise.
  And as a AAA member, you’ll receive a $100 ship­board credit per cabin, based on double occupancy.
  If the itinerary wasn’t spectacular in its own right, the ship itself will blow you away. The magnificent Millennium offers world-class restaurants, Broadway-style shows, a luxurious spa and amenities that rival the grandest hotel on land.
  “This is a wonderful opportunity for members to participate in a trip of a lifetime with other like-minded AAA members,” Mr. Sutherland said. “And the fact that the trip is hosted by AAA will help make it an easy, worry-free experience.”
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Live on Stage: Humpback Whales and Harbor Porpoises
By Adam McCulloch
humpback
c. Dolphin Fleet of Provincetown
Whale-watching is plentiful in the waters off Cape Cod.

  Running the length of the Eastern Seaboard from the Caribbean to Canada is a cetacean super-highway: a migration route for whales the size of semi-trailers.
  For our aquatic cousins, it’s simply part of life’s long journey; for humans, it provides an opportunity to get up close with the largest creatures you’ll ever meet.
  Pods of whales return year after year to specific destinations centered on Gulf of Maine, Gulf of St. Lawrence and the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador.
  These feeding grounds are not some truck stop where whales grab a mouthful of mixed seafood before moving on. This is home. The gin blue waters of the Caribbean (while warm) have virtually no food, and instead, whales rely on vast fat reserves to last out the season. In contrast, the northeast is a feast of tiny fish and sand eels.
  “We’re very lucky,” admits Steve Miliken. His family-owned Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch has been plying the waters off Cape Cod since 1975.
  “In the spring, we have whales very close: right in the harbor. At Herring Cove and Race Point, you often see right whales working the area,” he says, adding that patient observers can even spot them from shore.
  The waters around Cape Cod are a particularly good (not to mention convenient) location for whale watching due mainly to the upwelling of currents that concentrate a smorgasbord of sea life in the shallow waters around The Stelwagen Banks Marine Sanctuary, seven miles north of Provincetown.
  The waters are so rich most whale watching operators throughout New England and Canada guarantee sightings. In essence, they’re all selling tickets to the same show in which humpbacks star.
  “They’re boisterous and playful and often breach completely out of the water,” says Mr. Miliken.
  It’s a fine piece of acrobatics for creatures weighing 80,000 pounds, but they are by no means the only attraction. Minke and endangered right whales (of which only 300 remain) are joined by harbor porpoises, the world’s smallest toothed whale.
  “The pilot whales come here for the squid. I’ve seen sperm and blue whales but that’s a very rare sighting. We actually see more whales than some scientists,” he says, noting that they’ve catalogued more than a thousand individuals.
  Many species like finbacks hang around all winter. Their diminutive dorsal fins, set close to the tail, make them look deceptively small from a distance. (It may be the whale version of donning vertical stripes to look thinner.)
  They are, in fact, the second-largest creature on Earth, growing up to 88 feet, bested only by the blue whale – the largest creature to ever live.
  Listening to the oceanographer’s commentary, it’s hard not to be awestruck by every piece of whale trivia: Under the right conditions a humpback song in New England can be heard in India, 10,000 miles away; a baby humpback grows at a rate of 100 pounds a day; the heart of a finback is as large as a car — it’s mind-boggling stuff.
  Boats like Mr. Miliken’s are decked out with highly sophisticated computer data­bases of habitats, 3-D contour maps and marine wildlife directories for bird watchers. There’s an audio library of whale sounds and, if the water is calm, you can even listen to them live through underwater microphones.